lead work help ?

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northstar

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Hi is there anyone on this site who specialize in lead work, or any sites ? need some advice regarding a flat bay roof ? many thanks
 
it is a flat bay roof, it has lead on it at the moment. It is 3.2m wide by 60cm depth what is the required code of lead? do you require a expansion joint for such a width?
 
i think you need an expansion joint every 1m although not an expert. justlead will be able to help
 
The length of each piece of lead will definately depend on the code used. The minimum you can use in this case, is 1.5m of code 4. I would tend to use code 6 for a quality job. But in any event if its fitted badly it don't realy matter. Useful reference from the lead developement association book.
 
You will need to split it into 2 bays with a roll. Could be done in code 5 but 6 will be better.
You can get advice from the LSA.

If you have never done this before get someone to do it. It will look better and be done right;)

It is not as easy as it looks.
 
Have you thought about the prep: Good firm 3/4" Ply base and should also be lined with Erskin felt before the lead gets laid.
 
might give it a go. if not at least i am geting the know how. How would you overlap the lead,or is there a particular joint you would use ? and would you use sealant? many thanks for all the replys so far. cant have enough knowledge :)
 
If you need to join on the flat. Normaly use a lead roll for the overlap. This is a very skilled to get a good job. Normaly its the back and front which is the difficult bit because they need to be properly dressed with out thinning the lead.
 
It is done with a wood cored roll like this
wood cored roll.JPG

It is not an easy thing to do. If it is done badly it will need done again in a few years if you are lucky.
Sealants are not used. Normally the underlay is now geotex.
 
Proper lead rolls are formed by 2" Round to Oval profile of timber with flate base. You take your bottom lap over the top a about 1" down the other side. Your top lap goes right the way over and out on the flat the other side about 2".

sopleyChurch-lead-big.jpg
 
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Hi tamz it is a curved bay window, so if you used the wood roll to form the lead, i assume you would have to weld a bit on the front of the roll ?
 
75mm for the undercloak, 165 for the overcloak.

This really is not an easy thing to do.
 
You can weld it if you like but it is easier to dress it.........well it is for me:)
 
Hi I have done a bit of this. There are one or two points to consider. If using say code 5 sheet lead (the thinnest i would use) it is likley to cost £200 for the size you describe. The methods that are used are bossing and or lead welding and i think its fair to say they do not come naturally. The risks being, you damage the sheet lead beyond repair or burn the property down. The upside being once completed it will have a life expectancy in access of 70 years ( I done a bit in Paris that was 15 century, they wanted a bit added) However if its low level it may well get nicked.
If i can be of help i will. Which can include making it to an accurate drawing, photos and posting it for you to fit.
 
Everybody. That's how it is done. And, yes you leave the wood in.......unless you want to have a go at a hollow roll...but that is harder.

Justlead will keep you right. It is kinda his hobby;):cool:
 
my mistake tamz, did not explain properly. there is a expansion joint, it looks like a rubber strip with lead either side, anyone used one? thanks
 
Personaly I think the job is going to be difficult to get right if you have no lead working experience. A good lead worker should be able to complete the task in half a day, and thats bosses no lead burning. Difficult to get good lead workers though; at a premium same as thier prices.
 
T pren expansion joint. Piece of neoprene stuck to 2 bits of lead. T pren plus has a cover flap to cover the neoprene. Sold in 3m and 6 m lengths. Not cheap.
 
thanks reg man for the advice, done all the lead work at college on 6129 assesments, getting advice for friend on how it is done properly. thanks
 
£200 odd plus vat

Here
[DLMURL]http://www.britishlead.co.uk/downloads/t_pren_gutter_expansion.pdf[/DLMURL]
 
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Why not just use a nice modern option, go for a fibreglass roof covering, then you can buy the missus a present withall the money saved, even a first timer can make a reasonable finish providing they follow some basic rules, which of course are preparation preparation and preparation followed with some resin, glass fibre and gell coat
 
oldplumber said:
which of course are preparation preparation and preparation followed with some resin, glass fibre and gell coat
Click to expand...

I would get the mrs's to do it,does not sound much different from one of her make up sessions
:):)
 
Final say is with my friend, if he goes with lead dear but long lasting job or as oldplumber says go with fiberglass and resin and buy a nice present with the change? dilemas
 
Hi puddle,first floor bay window roof, sounds a bit tricky for the mrs and her makeup bag :)
 
Not only is lead longer lasting to say the least,it improves the look of the structure,making a lot more stylish and cost wise is not that bad in real terms.on a small area as this,
could even do a little pattering around top edge of bay :)
 
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Fibreglass may be fine for modern new build schemes where the fibreglass will probably outlast the house but there really is no substitute for the real thing.
 
dont forget that a first timers attempt with lead may well leak but the same with fibre glass is unlikely too as there arent any of those nasty seams.
 
Hi Northstar. The advise you are getting is good, even fibreglass a wonderful material should you earn enough for a yacht. The expansion issue is caterered for using wood core roll. T Pren is as has been explained welded into lengths of sheet lead on gutter situation, where there is no room to form drips in order to create expansion joints. When laying lead sheet roofing the appearance of the finish product is important as is following traditional methods. Forming wood core rolls allows two pieces of lead to be joined but allows for the expansion of the material without compromising its weathering qualities. When laying sheet lead on your type of roof i would often form three bays (Centre bay and two ends) The end bays would both have under cloak and the centre bay two over cloaks. (sheet lead manual will explain this) Although i do not have images of this there are one or two on this site that will give you an idea of the rolls and how they are set out. Lead Slate and Lead Roofing Self Help Videos
 
Dont forget that the pikeys will have it away if its only a first floor roof, cost of metals is going up so quick!
 
Why not buy a roll of green mineral felt and use that?

Done lots of lead work of all types, don't like it never have. I found it easier to lead weld or "burn" as some say. Bossing okay but you have got to have patience. I think one of the lead companies do publish a guide as to how to bos which may help you. Its like laying carpet except its heavy, the hardest part being bossing the up stand against the wall if you are abutting a rear wall that is and the roll end.

You will probably also need tin snips, chase wedge, setting in stick, bending stick, step turn, flat dresser, lead mallet and tallow beside other things.

A piece of waste lead to dress through.

You can also use lock welting preferably double lock welts if the pitch allows, and in some places standing seams. It all depends. The lead sheet association website is okay.
 
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