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I've connected it to the correct wires like you said. If I override the thermostat like the old programmer it would fire the boiler up but it isn't doing it on this now?
 
does it work normally tho?
 
Yeah the Honeywell worked fine I only replaced it caused it looked dated. The temperature in the house ATM is 25 degree centigrade I override it to 30 the small flame appeared on the display and it should then fire the boiler up? I did read this programmer and all other thermostatic programmers that are made now have an intelligents built into it. I'm thinking because I
The house is already very warm it won't fire the boiler due to the fact that it's too warm and this must be the intelligents kicking which makes it be energy effiencency? Would I be correct?
 
Yeah the Honeywell worked fine I only replaced it caused it looked dated. The temperature in the house ATM is 25 degree centigrade I override it to 30 the small flame appeared on the display and it should then fire the boiler up? I did read this programmer and all other thermostatic programmers that are made now have an intelligents built into it. I'm thinking because I
The house is already very warm it won't fire the boiler due to the fact that it's too warm and this must be the intelligents kicking which makes it be energy effiencency? Would I be correct?

you got a multi meter/ volt pen?
 
I don't sorry. I've got a neon flat head. The Honeywell worked fine. What do you think it could be? Should it just override matter what the room temperature is?
 
if the flame sim is there then the room stat is calling for heat pitty you didnt have a multi meter with you as red should be live (when power is on) and black is back to the boiler for call (eg turn on) i think
 
What is the worst it can do if it doesn't work? Could it blow the fuse?
 
What is the worst it can do if it doesn't work? Could it blow the fuse?

no just wouldnt work/work
as the things rated for 240v
 
Should it matter if the red sleeving is biting down on the screw rather than the copper wire in the connecter block on the Drayton programmer?
 
Should it matter if the red sleeving is biting down on the screw rather than the copper wire in the connecter block on the Drayton programmer?

no as the copper will still be touching
 
the first time you did it, it should be like this

image1(1).JPG
 
Yeah shaun I've done it that way. From your experience What could be the problem?
 
Yeah shaun I've done it that way. From your experience What could be the problem?

sorry to say hard to tell with out a multi meter if you have voltage in red one (230-250v) to earth could be the stat but if you dont have voltage on red or black could be further back, does it work with old stat back on ?

you didnt do them live did you?
 
Yeah the old stat worked fine no problems. The battery's from the Drayton are roasting hot?
 
Yeah the old stat worked fine no problems. The battery's from the Drayton are roasting hot?

they shouldnt be that warm maybe stat at fault how old is the stat?
 
Ok. What type of programmer thermostat would you recommend ?
Thank for all your help.
 
My boss is gas safe. It's a glow worm combi 10year old not a condensing.
 
do you have a heating timer on the boiler or is it sep? if you do you only need a simple room stat

Drayton Digistat + Room Thermostat | Thermostats | NoLinkingToThis

[url]http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/honeywell-dt90e-digital-room-thermostat-eco/41365
[/URL]
 
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Nothing on the boiler. I used the Honeywell programmer with a built in thermostat.
 
Honeywell CMT921 Wireless Room Thermostat | Wireless Thermostats | NoLinkingToThis
 
Got it working. The face on the programmer wasn't connecting the pcb board. As I had it screw too tight against the wall. It's clicking off and off now. Great.
 
Got it working. The face on the programmer wasn't connecting the pcb board. As I had it screw too tight against the wall. It's clicking off and off now. Great.

:D bloody plastic cr*p

good job for sticking with it
 
Yeah I know. When I remove the back case and put the front back on I heard the signal wire making a click sound to the boiler then it fired up. Thanks to your patience and expert advise now I have a new programmer working.
Thanks again.
 
Yeah I know. When I remove the back case and put the front back on I heard the signal wire making a click sound to the boiler then it fired up. Thanks to your patience and expert advise now I have a new programmer working.
Thanks again.

not a problem
 
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