Drayton Digistat+ 3 hard wire problem

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Drayton Digistat+ 3 hard wire problem

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Dave Box

A Big Hello to everyone, I'm new to the Forum and would appreciate any help that you can give. I have just purchased a New Drayton Digistat +3 22087 hard wire model to replace my current mechanical Micromark room thermostat which contols my boiler/room temp. I have removed it from it's wall mounting and it reveals a mains cable which has 4 cables in it, One of each of the following RED/BLUE/YELLOW/EARTH.
My problem is as follows, when reconnecting the cables to the New Drayton Digistat + 3 do I just connect the Red & Blue to the L & N Terminal on the new T/Stat and egnore the Yellow which has a red sleeve over it, and I presume is the live switch cable for the Micromark. The Drayon Manual tells me to egnore the neutral and earth connections as the unit is double insulated. any help would be greatly appreciated
 
c terminal red wire
on terminal black wire

but make sure the power is off

pg4

[DLMURL]http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=10442[/DLMURL]
 
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Inverness said:
Will this all I need and it will work?
Click to expand...

unless you have problems it should

as its a battery unit it doesnt need power it works like a light switch power sent from boiler/wiring center and live back to boiler/ wiring center (calling for heat)
 
thanks again Shaun very much appreciate your time and patience.
 
I've connected it to the correct wires like you said. If I override the thermostat like the old programmer it would fire the boiler up but it isn't doing it on this now?
 
does it work normally tho?
 
Yeah the Honeywell worked fine I only replaced it caused it looked dated. The temperature in the house ATM is 25 degree centigrade I override it to 30 the small flame appeared on the display and it should then fire the boiler up? I did read this programmer and all other thermostatic programmers that are made now have an intelligents built into it. I'm thinking because I
The house is already very warm it won't fire the boiler due to the fact that it's too warm and this must be the intelligents kicking which makes it be energy effiencency? Would I be correct?
 
Inverness said:
Yeah the Honeywell worked fine I only replaced it caused it looked dated. The temperature in the house ATM is 25 degree centigrade I override it to 30 the small flame appeared on the display and it should then fire the boiler up? I did read this programmer and all other thermostatic programmers that are made now have an intelligents built into it. I'm thinking because I
The house is already very warm it won't fire the boiler due to the fact that it's too warm and this must be the intelligents kicking which makes it be energy effiencency? Would I be correct?
Click to expand...

you got a multi meter/ volt pen?
 
I don't sorry. I've got a neon flat head. The Honeywell worked fine. What do you think it could be? Should it just override matter what the room temperature is?
 
if the flame sim is there then the room stat is calling for heat pitty you didnt have a multi meter with you as red should be live (when power is on) and black is back to the boiler for call (eg turn on) i think
 
What is the worst it can do if it doesn't work? Could it blow the fuse?
 
Inverness said:
What is the worst it can do if it doesn't work? Could it blow the fuse?
Click to expand...

no just wouldnt work/work
as the things rated for 240v
 
Should it matter if the red sleeving is biting down on the screw rather than the copper wire in the connecter block on the Drayton programmer?
 
Inverness said:
Should it matter if the red sleeving is biting down on the screw rather than the copper wire in the connecter block on the Drayton programmer?
Click to expand...

no as the copper will still be touching
 
the first time you did it, it should be like this

image1(1).JPG
 
Yeah shaun I've done it that way. From your experience What could be the problem?
 
Inverness said:
Yeah shaun I've done it that way. From your experience What could be the problem?
Click to expand...

sorry to say hard to tell with out a multi meter if you have voltage in red one (230-250v) to earth could be the stat but if you dont have voltage on red or black could be further back, does it work with old stat back on ?

you didnt do them live did you?
 
Yeah the old stat worked fine no problems. The battery's from the Drayton are roasting hot?
 
Inverness said:
Yeah the old stat worked fine no problems. The battery's from the Drayton are roasting hot?
Click to expand...

they shouldnt be that warm maybe stat at fault how old is the stat?
 
Ok. What type of programmer thermostat would you recommend ?
Thank for all your help.
 
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