New DIY "Plumber" needs advise for loft water tank supply nut and olive?!?

[ShaunCorbs]

Well its the tail that came with the float valve mate. Just checked the washer against it and its an exact fit across the top flat part,does that sound right?

yep just looks mega big in your pic

 

[Ghostrider17]

yep just looks mega big in your pic

Haha,that would be my rubbish photography skills. Ill let you know tomorrow how I get on.

I'm grabbing the service valve on the way,for the sake of a couple of quid Ill have it with me if the olive has damaged the pipe,just hope that if I need to use it theres enough pipe before the bend to fit it but Ill check before I go cutting. I did fit a new washing machine supply tap a few months ago at my own house which is why I think I got confused with the whole olive/washer thing.

Thanks again,really appreciate it.

 

[Best]

Sorry to say this, as it will sound very negative, but I wouldn't use a tap connector type fitting, to connect to a ballvalve that is designed for a nut and olive. They are one of the most pointless fittings to use on side entry ballvalves. Why a washer seal is deemed satisfactory or necessary there is beyond me.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sorry to say this, as it will sound very negative, but I wouldn't use a tap connector type fitting, to connect to a ballvalve that is designed for a nut and olive. They are one of the most pointless fittings to use on side entry ballvalves. Why a washer seal is deemed satisfactory or necessary there is beyond me.

Exactly the same with toilet ball/float valves do you use a nut and olive on them doubtful

 

[Best]

Exactly the same with toilet ball/float valves do you use a nut and olive on them doubtful

It is not exactly the same with toilets.
Toilets ball/float valves usually were plastic tailed, so not as ideal for nut and olive connection.
But most toilets are bottom entry ballvalves that more suit a flat seal because of 4 reasons, -
(1) supply pipe has often not enough up and down movement (even though it really ideally should have) for typical 1/2" needed for compression joint.
(2) pipe requires usually installed neatly, so can be better looking with a sharp bend away, rather than just straight up or offset from floor
(3) Many plastic or brass tailed cistern valves are made to suit flat washers.
(4) Plastic tailed valves more easy damaged using a nut and olive joint.

Whereas a side entry ballvalve on a toilet often will have plenty of movement on the pipe and especially on a cold water tank in a loft normally the mains pipe will have lots of movement on the pipe to aid installing or removing the complete valve with tail.
Never seen a properly done compression joint leaking on a tank ballvalve, but have seen lots of fibre washer solder fittings leaking, some very badly and causing water damage. Just another weak link in plumbing with a limited and unknown lifespan.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Not the fluidmasters they can do both

And don't agree with your last part there both the same if done badly but haven't come across one installed correctly leaking

I've even seen tap connectors installed old school style with string never leaked

 

[Best]

Not the fluidmasters they can do both

And don't agree with your last part there both the same if done badly but haven't come across one installed correctly leaking

I've even seen tap connectors installed old school style with string never leaked

Some fibre washers just perish eventually, and really bad leaks occur. I have come across lots because I tend to do a fair bit of maintainence work. Maybe some of the fibre washers weren't good quality. Scary when you see the remains of the fibre washer is just mush. I like the rubber type washers made by Hepworth.
I think if the ballvalve was made for an olive, then the sharp edge against the washer is also a problem.
Yea, I know the Fluidmaster tails are designed to do washer or olive. Good design.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Same do a shed load of maintenance in schools etc

Normally find the nuts arnt tight enough which cause the fibre washer to swell a lot more than designed

 

[Best]

Same do a shed load of maintenance in schools etc

Normally find the nuts arnt tight enough which cause the fibre washer to swell a lot more than designed

I suppose that could be due to plumbers afraid to over tighten and damage the fibre washers.
I am always wary of disturbing fibre washer joints and prefer the strength a compression olive joint gives.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You would be surprised a fibre washer joint can take more of a shock load than a compression joint (both done correctly)