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What tool are you using to try and remove it?I have header tank and cold water tank, both full.
Also now can't get the cap off to fit Immersion heater. Omfg
Discuss water help no hot water in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
What tool are you using to try and remove it?I have header tank and cold water tank, both full.
Also now can't get the cap off to fit Immersion heater. Omfg
What tool are you using to try and remove it?
Sounds like air in the system, try bleeding all radiators and any manual / automatic vent points. If no air comes out I'm afraid you'll have to hire another plumber or get the first one back, I hope you haven't paid him!
I would never leave a customer like this
The smaller of the 2 tanks, what was the condition of the water like, did you try pushing a screwdriver or something into the tank outlet to make sure it was clear?I have header tank and cold water tank, both full.
Also now can't get the cap off to fit Immersion heater. Omfg
What do you mean by was caked up but free flowing now?
Ok am I doing something wrong, this is the tap the plumber drained the water out of the system with above the boiler. In my little mind I thought if I opened that valve/tap water should come out, am I wrong do I have to open anything else. I don't want to completely drain everything down just view the water or make sure it's making it to the boiler and it's not just air pushing around.
Water will come out so long as the washer isn't stuck or the valve blocked. If the plumber recently used it then it should be fine. What I would do is attach a hose, open the valve and then go in the loft to check that the water level in the tank drops and refills. This will prove if the cold feed is blocked or not.So I should have water come out of that?
Water will come out so long as the washer isn't stuck or the valve blocked. If the plumber recently used it then it should be fine. What I would do is attach a hose, open the valve and then go in the loft to check that the water level in the tank drops and refills. This will prove if the cold feed is blocked or not.
If it was me, I'd slightly unscrew the circular nut that the square nut passes through, don't take it all out but it will allow you open the drain valve further, this can sometimes free off the washer in the valve. Be warned though, if the washer is knackered you could find the valve won't re seal. Personally I'd wait till tomorrow till shops are open to get a replacement if needed.Nothing comes out when I undo the square bit, do I have to push or press anything, it opens very easily but not even a drip out of it when square bit fully open.
If it was me, I'd slightly unscrew the circular nut that the square nut passes through, don't take it all out but it will allow you open the drain valve further, this can sometimes free off the washer in the valve. Be warned though, if the washer is knackered you could find the valve won't re seal. Personally I'd wait till tomorrow till shops are open to get a replacement if needed.
Thanks again for all the advice.
No worries, it’s why we’re here. I hope you get sorted, can you let us know how you get on?
When you get home take a pic of the new pipe work, just to keep us updated.Well another 5 hours with a different plumber and guess what, no hot water or heating. I'm at work but the Mrs has said they have replaced a load of pipework in the airing cupboard and got some sludgy water out. But it's still coming up flow error. Going to have to come back another day, dread to think on cost of this little lot. Sad times.
Why New radiators? If they're sludged up just take them off, give them a flush with hose pipe outside and they'll be fine.Will do no problems. They were on about new radiators and all sorts Mrs is leaving piles of brown poo everywhere
When you get home take a pic of the new pipe work, just to keep us updated.
When it's in hot water on from programme, with cylinder start set to 55-60 boiler should fire. Probably heads gone on actuator or fault with motor or three port wiring
They've replaced the cold feed, it's a typical place for the system to block up there. Obviously there's no way of knowing whether it was blocked or not though. I personally wouldn't have installed a iso valve either, I'd have gone with a full bore valve and removed the handle so it can't accidently be turned off.That's new pipes, not as many as I thought but new none the less.
Sounds like a good power flush should see you right.A bit more info, when the new Plumber was doing his stuff the water he got to run clear and the hot water started to heat up, he then tried the heating side and that screwed the whole system.water went all crap again and boiler wouldn't fire.
It's not required but I thought that was a bypass and that the gate valve would only be partially open.To me it looks like the pumps are fine it's the fact that the flow and return are joined together that gets me.
But in all honesty I cant really make every thing out as it hurts my eyes. RIP it out and do it again.
It's not required but I thought that was a bypass and that the gate valve would only be partially open.
If that pump now actually running and on speed 3 then it should be showing a power output of > 35W.Thanks again guys my head hurts no and the Mrs is proper ****ed off.
The pump just switches off when the flow message comes up but yes it displays between 29 and 34 watt when running.
JP
I would be wary of trying to fix this by making ad hoc modifications ( new bits of pipe and valves et al ) and then trying to run the system. You run the possible risk of either making the problem worse or possibly causing expensive damage to the boiler.
Isolate the heating system other than one radiator (preferably the one closest to the boiler ) and then systematically work through the boiler + single rad hydraulic system. At the same time check and test the individual controls against the logic diagram. Also fit a quality magnetic filter on the return to the boiler.
Once you are satisfied that you have a clear hydraulic path on your mini system - configure the pump to run with the boiler off and satisfy yourself you have a good clean flow path.
Thereafter and only when you have a clear hydraulic flow path, get the boiler operational at minimum rate and stable before you systematically look at the rest of the system.
At the end of the day, you have a fairly straightforward system to analyse, approach it in a logical step by step fashion - and make sure that you have not had anyone in to work in this problem who has changed the flow paths.
Always have in mind that you may have more than one problem with the system - hence the need to be systematic, patient and don’t jump to conclusions (sludge is an issue, but in my experience, a serious sludge problem = no flow, not erratic flow which are (to my mind) the symptoms you are describing ).
A suggestion - get the new iso valve by the pump removed - it is not full bore so is restricting flow - it may seem churlish, but the last thing you need at the moment is anything that disrupts or distorts the hydraulic flow
Hope this helps
I haven't changed anything its all been done by "qualified " plumbers.
the boiler was serviced in February if I remember correctly.
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