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Burger
I presume I can wire in a Immersion heater, I'm just trying to find the length I can use. Attached image is my tank info.
Yes you can, you’d need a 27” one. Are you ok with electrics?
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I presume I can wire in a Immersion heater, I'm just trying to find the length I can use. Attached image is my tank info.
We have new pump , new boiler flow switch, new 3 way valve and no luck lol
Yes you can, you’d need a 27” one. Are you ok with electrics?
Looking at the shiote in the filter, could be stopping it. Can you take a photo of your pump (if it’s near cylinder) and 3 port layout? Just to maybe get a different perspective.
Are you getting no flow on heating and hot water or just when your calling for hot water?
It could easily be an airlock after the repair. The plumber most likely drained down to some degree to change the valve so an air lock would not be uncommon. Try cycling your hot water on and off for a few minutes. Using the programmer turn the hot water on, for 10 - 20 seconds, off for 10 - 20 seconds and do this for a few minutes. You should be able to hear the water move and possible hear bubbles in the system. Other than that it could be a blockage or even a blocked cold feed/dried up f&e tank.On both , when it was first so called repaired it all worked on pump speed 2 , but then struggled so had to be moved to 3, my thinking is it's a blockage moving around but I'm doing a lot of thinking over it all probably too much lol.
Did you check the boiler thermostat? And as per @Craig Watson check the f&e tank has water in it. Are there any valves where the pipes connect to the boiler?
F&e tank ?
Boiler thermostat ok too
Feed and expansion (sometimes referred to as header tank), or is it a sealed system? In which case do you have correct pressure?
What tool are you using to try and remove it?I have header tank and cold water tank, both full.
Also now can't get the cap off to fit Immersion heater. Omfg
What tool are you using to try and remove it?
Sounds like air in the system, try bleeding all radiators and any manual / automatic vent points. If no air comes out I'm afraid you'll have to hire another plumber or get the first one back, I hope you haven't paid him!
I would never leave a customer like this
The smaller of the 2 tanks, what was the condition of the water like, did you try pushing a screwdriver or something into the tank outlet to make sure it was clear?I have header tank and cold water tank, both full.
Also now can't get the cap off to fit Immersion heater. Omfg
What do you mean by was caked up but free flowing now?
Ok am I doing something wrong, this is the tap the plumber drained the water out of the system with above the boiler. In my little mind I thought if I opened that valve/tap water should come out, am I wrong do I have to open anything else. I don't want to completely drain everything down just view the water or make sure it's making it to the boiler and it's not just air pushing around.
Water will come out so long as the washer isn't stuck or the valve blocked. If the plumber recently used it then it should be fine. What I would do is attach a hose, open the valve and then go in the loft to check that the water level in the tank drops and refills. This will prove if the cold feed is blocked or not.So I should have water come out of that?
Water will come out so long as the washer isn't stuck or the valve blocked. If the plumber recently used it then it should be fine. What I would do is attach a hose, open the valve and then go in the loft to check that the water level in the tank drops and refills. This will prove if the cold feed is blocked or not.
If it was me, I'd slightly unscrew the circular nut that the square nut passes through, don't take it all out but it will allow you open the drain valve further, this can sometimes free off the washer in the valve. Be warned though, if the washer is knackered you could find the valve won't re seal. Personally I'd wait till tomorrow till shops are open to get a replacement if needed.Nothing comes out when I undo the square bit, do I have to push or press anything, it opens very easily but not even a drip out of it when square bit fully open.
If it was me, I'd slightly unscrew the circular nut that the square nut passes through, don't take it all out but it will allow you open the drain valve further, this can sometimes free off the washer in the valve. Be warned though, if the washer is knackered you could find the valve won't re seal. Personally I'd wait till tomorrow till shops are open to get a replacement if needed.
Thanks again for all the advice.
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