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mutley racers

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Hi chaps, I got a danfoss standaRd room stat. Am not getting any audibel click when turning it up or down, when heating is on, am getting 230v at terminal 4 and . Even when I turn it up and down. Is this correct? As it is not calling for heat at wiring centre. So not getting any heating. Wires are a pickle as well.
 
20130904_141244.jpg

Wiring centre
 
But apparently it was working ok. And then the heating would stay on with hot water but couldn't put heating on on its own. So I put new 3 port valve in and now I can get hot water on its own but not heating at all
 
BOD said:
its a take out and start again to me , bloody sparkys
Click to expand...

It wasn't a spark it was I! Screwfix had red insulation tape on offer. I would defo strip it all back and re do all connections and clip it all back a little neater.

If its just heating u prob made minor error. Is stat a 3 wire or just live in s/l out?

So when hearing is on does vale engage / but no ignition on boiler? If so no juice getting through micro switch when 3 port swings to hearing only.

Also what boiler is it?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Is the red live when calling for heat ? Is the black live too ? What have you checked ?
 
Yep, am getting 240volts on on both sets of wires. But if I turn stat up or down nothing changes.

Also heating on on programmer is live. But not getting any audible click from stat
 
Was warm yes and the clients said it is usually a few degrees out as they have tested it
 
I cannot find it? Think in that junction box with all the red tape. But what I thought was it was not live
 
For sake of a few quid I'd tempted to swap stat to emliminate it
 
Ermintrude said:
Sorry. If u suspect stat has reached set point and thus broken the circuit, connect the two red wires together using the black jumper wire.
Click to expand...

I'm a junkie, excuse my last post. Thought stat had two red and one black wire. Just and off the wall thought here, the programmer hasn't been set wrongly? Perhaps for a gravity system??

Also the red wire with just tape on end at boiler end could it be demand signal from 3 port? See if its live when htg only engaged on 3port? If so open stat by turning down, is it still live?

You didn't say if 3 port went over to heating and ran pump and there was no call for heat or if nothing at all happened?
 
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Ermintrude said:
I'm a junkie, excuse my last post. Thought stat had two red and one black wire. Just and off the wall thought here, the programmer hasn't been set wrongly? Perhaps for a gravity system??

Also the red wire with just tape on end at boiler end could it be demand signal from 3 port? See if its live when htg only engaged on 3port? If so open stat by turning down, is it still live?


You didn't say if 3 port went over to heating and ran pump and there was no call for heat or if nothing at all happened?
Click to expand...


The 3 port valve did not move at all. No live on the white wire. Also the red with tape on it was live when hot water was. Not heating
 
dancinplumba said:
Remove red wire from stat. Is black still live ?
Click to expand...

Am not there now but shall when next there.

Any chance someone can explain to me how to read a wiring diagram for a stat as I have been looking on the danfoss site and don't really understand the diagrams
 
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If you swapped the valve wire for wire the fault was pre existing. Customers rarely tell you the truth.

Depends what model of stat you are using but 4 is normally a neutral connection.
Turn the power off and check with a multi meter which terminals make when you turn the stat up

If you have 2 wires then you should have no neutral, 3 then one of them is neutral.
Stats with relays need the neutral
 
mutley racers said:
The 3 port valve did not move at all. No live on the white wire. Also the red with tape on it was live when hot water was. Not heating
Click to expand...

So the red is the s/l for hw?

Get 240v . If you trick 3 port into going into heating by using signal from hw ( connect heating in place of hw on 3 port. ) when check to see if signal for heating gets to boiler.
 
Screenshot_2013-09-05-07-37-56.jpg

So it Is a standard danfoss one. Must be the 2nd digram a chaps.

Also, when you say make, do you mean continuity? Buzzes?
 
Ermintrude said:
So the red is the s/l for hw?

Get 240v . If you trick 3 port into going into heating by using signal from hw ( connect heating in place of hw on 3 port. ) when check to see if signal for heating gets to boiler.
Click to expand...


But the hot water is working fine. Absolutely nothing wrong with that side of things
 
mutley racers said:
But the hot water is working fine. Absolutely nothing wrong with that side of things
Click to expand...

No that's why I said to use it. You know hot water works 100% so if you connect wire s/l for hot water to where s/l for heating should be connected to 3 port, ( so that only heating comes on when u ask for hot water) u know that the three port onwards is wired correctly,
 
But, I will not be able to get the room stat to make as it's not switching. There is not an audible click you see
 
mutley racers said:
But, I will not be able to get the room stat to make as it's not switching. There is not an audible click you see
Click to expand...

What Ermintrude is suggesting is that you test downstream of the 3-port by moving the HW switched live to CH. If that kicks the heating on, called by the HW programmer and cylinder stat, then everything downstream of the 3-port is OK. Then put the wiring back as it was, and link the room stat wires to make that circuit. That will prove everything downstream of the room stat. Or, for the sake of a few quid, swap the room stat!
 
U don't need room stat as the signal is going to come from the hot water s/l. Your pretending that the hw signal is the one from the stat ? The stat isn't being tested .

If u get the two wires from stat and join together u are making stat. This won't cost a penny.


Do u have a multi meter?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If that is the stat it should be wired to 1 and 2 and 4 is a neutral but it will work without the neutral.
Test it anyway to make sure.
 
Ermintrude said:
U don't need room stat as the signal is going to come from the hot water s/l. Your pretending that the hw signal is the one from the stat ? The stat isn't being tested .

If u get the two wires from stat and join together u are making stat. This won't cost a penny.


Do u have a multi meter?
Click to expand...

Sorry, was replying to tamz post. Yes I have a multimeter
 
tamz said:
If that is the stat it should be wired to 1 and 2 and 4 is a neutral but it will work without the neutral.
Test it anyway to make sure.
Click to expand...

As you can see from my picture tamz, that is how it's wired
 
U can test stat. Using multi meter set it to the continuity / resistance setting
amase8eb.jpg


Then open stat (low temp) put leads on to terminals ( previously disconnecting red And black) there should be no reading / high resistance and no beep.

Close stat (high temp) multi meter should beep and give u a resistance reading
geremury.jpg
 
Ermintrude said:
U can test stat. Using multi meter set it to the continuity / resistance setting
amase8eb.jpg


Then open stat (low temp) put leads on to terminals ( previously disconnecting red And black) there should be no reading / high resistance and no beep.

Close stat (high temp) multi meter should beep and give u a resistance reading
geremury.jpg
Click to expand...

When you say 'previously disconnect red and black', do you mean all wires going to room stat?
 
Yes. Because if your testing stat and the wires are in a mess you could be getting continuity through them and not stat.
 
I see. I see in the honeywell guide it says 'remove wire from terminal 3, live to terminal 1 (this is the normal live isn't it), turn stat to call, if no live on 3 then faulty
 
So if I was going to try this test on the danfoss one shown, I would disconnect the wire from 2, live on 1?
 
Can't really see picture on my phone send web link for a butchers
 
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