Not all Rads getting hot

[RoryD]

so many things to check, do they get warm upstairs and not downstairs? Is it that there are some up and some down?? I'd be looking at the pump, whether the by-pass is set correctly or if there's any blockages

 

[deden56]

only certain ones get hot upstairs & down

 

[RoryD]

u got a blockage of somesort in ur system mate

 

[deden56]

heat exchanger or coil has been mentioned to me.Is this a clean or change? and how do I check if it is this.The central heating pump is getting very hot and getting F22 fault code Glow worm Flexicom hx 24 kw

 

[deden56]

u got a blockage of somesort in ur system mate

I can send you a plan of system the way it is piped if you give me your email address

 

[stevetheplumber]

if it didnt work before it sounds like you have a problem in the basic design of your system you need two motorised valves and probably a balancing valve on the cylinder get the controls sorted then you can repipe properly sorry failure to read complete thread controls look fine now

 

[ricky1]

How hot is pump too touch

 

[deden56]

It is very hot.I can not keep my hand on it.

 

[SafeGasInstall]

call e plumber as mention above you have been given a number to a good plumber ! call him and hi will sort it out for you ! do not leave it till next day summer is nearly over

 

[ricky1]

It is very hot.I can not keep my hand on it.

Suspect pump

 

[deden56]

The plumber who piped the Y plan is going to disconnect the cylinder and put a hose through it and also cut flow and return and put water through boiler to see if either is blocked

 

[Ian10261]

Try running a magnet over the pipework near the pump, if it sticks then theres a good chance theres a blockage. Prime candidate is where the cold feed from the F & E enters the syatem or neutral point as its more commonly known.

 

[deden56]

When He disconnected the cylinder there was a little amount of scale and brown water.The coil was flushed through with fresh water until clear.He fitted a vent after the 3 way valve .Only the rads upstairs are getting hot .I have had a climpro fitted .The tap water is set for 55 degrees but I have noticed the boiler is reaching temp of 95 degrees.He disconnected some rad pipes in the cellar and there was a lot of what I think was scale .He has said I might have to change the TRV's.only the rads upstairs are getting warm.

 

[fuzzy]

Try running a magnet over the pipework near the pump, if it sticks then theres a good chance theres a blockage. Prime candidate is where the cold feed from the F & E enters the syatem or neutral point as its more commonly known.

its so so common

 

[deden56]

What is the F & E

 

[LegionellaSlave]

feed and expansion tank.

The little tank in the loft.

 

[SafeGasInstall]

Man have you still not sort this system out yet ????

 

[deden56]

When He disconnected the cylinder there was a little amount of scale and brown water.The coil was flushed through with fresh water until clear.He fitted a vent after the 3 way valve .Only the rads upstairs are getting hot .I have had a climpro fitted .The tap water is set for 55 degrees but I have noticed the boiler is reaching temp of 95 degrees.He disconnected some rad pipes in the cellar and there was a lot of what I think was scale .He has said I might have to change the TRV's.only the rads upstairs are getting warm.

any thoughts on this?

 

[unguided1]

I cant believe this has not been sorted yet either

I agree that it is not good practice to combine a single pipe system with a two pipe system even so you still expect some sort circulation. The fact that your boiler is getting up to 95 degrees is not good for the boiler so I would suggest that you should turn it down so it reaches a maximum temp of 60 degrees the fault is not on the boiler its on the system.

My suggestion for discovering what the fault is with the system is to purchase a lazer thermometer and follow the route of all the pipwork the best you can to find where the system stops circulating, so far you have spent a lot of time and money altering pipework and getting nowhere. I feel its time to go back to basics

 

[deden56]

It has been confirmed that the system is a 2 pipe system.

 

[SafeGasInstall]

mate winter is knocking on everyone's front door ! get it sort it before x mas at least ,there is gys from here who will come and will sort it out with no time

 

[deden56]

Yes this is aworry if it's anything like last year.The plumber who has been working on it is gas safe but even he is scratching his head.:confused5:

 

[deden56]

Can anyone recommend a good Lazer thermometer.Do they have a range of eg a meter incase I cant get close to the pipes.

 

[SafeGasInstall]

[DLMURL="http://www.reginproducts.co.uk/thermometers/REGTN2"]REGTN2 - Infra Red Thermometer | Regin[/DLMURL]

 

[deden56]

The plumber plans to take all rads off and flush through with hose.He also thinks the TRV's might be clogged up.If they are can they be serviced or are they scrap? they are Drayton TRV4.

 

[SafeGasInstall]

but you also need a proper power flush in pipe work mate

 

[deden56]

I had one done a few weeks ago but the plumber who's working for me wasnt impressed with the pump and still thinks there is a blockage.The hall rad and front rm rad pipes can be accessed from cellar and he disconnected the hall rad pipe which has a gate valve on and there was quite a lot of rust and bits came out.I have new TRV's and lockshield valves but I dont want them fitted until I know the sludge/rust has been cleared.

 

[jtsplumbing]

are you sure that you have a 2 pipe system ? New boilers do-not like 1 pipe systems as they heat up to fast so make sure that you have got a 2 pipe system. What about pipe size ? if bulk of heating is on 15mm this will cause problems, you also say that you have scale in system, if so just flushing with a hose pipe will-not remove scale, needs a proper power flush with de-scaling chemical, I worked in Thames valley area for 20 years and scale was a major problem, glad I moved back to Devon (Soft Water) From reading through your problems it seems that your Local Plumbers have little knowlage of how new systems work , maybe I will move back up north ! could earn a fortune putting things right, Good Luck with your quest.

 

[deden56]

After speaking to the plumber he said that what came out when he disconnected the pipe was rust.

 

[jtsplumbing]

Hi if its a rust problem you are better off getting a proper powerflush and replaceing all of radiator valves when this has been done it would be a good idea to fit some sort of megnetic filter to the system , New boilers do-not like dirty systems, its possable that you now have rust particles in the heat exchanger of the boiler causeing overheat faults,
if the system has been like this since the new boiler was fitted, can you not get the plumber back who first fitted it to combe back and get it working ? again check the pipe size on the system . If you are showing a F22 fault its eather lack of water or a pump fault, looking at photo of pump looks like cheep type , if large system is pump the right size ? may need to fit a 15/60. Look in your installation / servicing book it will give you fault codes (take it you got left with this information) Sorry but with-out seeing the system alot of information is only a shot in the dark.

 

[deden56]

The system was flushed on the 11/08 but when the plumber disconnected the pipe in the cellar he got a lot of brown water and rust.I have been told as a last resort to get a bigger pump 15/60 as there are 9 rads 5 are big doubles.

 

[jtsplumbing]

Hi if as you say the system was flushed then NO BROWN WATER OR RUST should have been left in the system ! What did he use to flush system?? Was it a proper high power flushing pump ? what chemical was used in flushing pump to clean system ? was an inhibitor used after cleaning ? did he clean out the expansion tank ? How long did it take to power flush system ? this system would take a min 4/5 Hrs if very dirty should have put a pre-clean into system for at least 7 days, as you see quite involved to do a full system flush, I take it these are qualified people you are employing ?? Note do-not change pump unless system is clean, you will just push rust around system untill it blocks up or damages other components

 

[deden56]

I let the boiler run for an hour and have taken some temp reading with laser thermometer.(I will post tomorrow going on nights soon) the downstairs rads are not heated at all.I will take a temp reading of where the feed drps to the downstairs tomorrow.and the feed & retun on the boiler.If there is any other temp I should take let me know.

 

[deden56]

I have proved the bits that were in the brown water are rust some has stuck to a magnet

 

[Ian10261]

I cant believe how long this has gone on for now, i would have thought someone would have sorted it. I'm not too far from you (Mold, N Wales) depending which part of Liverpool you're at and i cant get there for a couple of weeks but if you like i'll take a look at it. PM me if you want me to stop by.

 

[jtsplumbing]

Hi Ian 10261, Haveing same thoughts as you been 2 years and still not sorted, reading about his system I do-not think he has had a proper power flush with the amount of rust he has in system ! may now have got to the stage that pipe-work will now have to be cut-out and replaced, Looks like this guy has been stiched up big time can-not understand why people keep paying out for crap work ! and will not get installer back to sort it ! Must be some desent fitters in Liverpool that will do a good job for a fair price ? Or do they all live in Wales and the West Country ?? :icon7:

 

[jtsplumbing]

Hi Deden56 Get the chap back who Flushed the system and tell him to do a proper job or give you your money back ! Have you reported any of these people to Gas Safe or Tradeing Standards, Was boiler fitted by Gas safe engineer ? Was it registerd ? could I ask what it cost you to have boiler replaced ! from what you say I think you have been ripped off big time. May-be Ian 10261 can sort it out for you .

 

[Ian10261]

I cant be bothered looking back over this thread to check but has anyone suggested removing the rads and manually flushing them or at least checking to see if theres any kind of decent flow through them with a hosepipe? I dont hear deden56 complaining of no hot water so it suggests to me that the pipework, pump, valves etc are ok but theres nowt getting to the rads so thats where i'd start looking. If they're really clagged up you may even end up replacing them.

 

[deden56]

All the rads have been manually flushed today and the plumber is still here trying to get the system going.The trv's and lockshields have been changed aswell.