Drayton Digistat+ 3 hard wire problem

[Dave Box]

A Big Hello to everyone, I'm new to the Forum and would appreciate any help that you can give. I have just purchased a New Drayton Digistat +3 22087 hard wire model to replace my current mechanical Micromark room thermostat which contols my boiler/room temp. I have removed it from it's wall mounting and it reveals a mains cable which has 4 cables in it, One of each of the following RED/BLUE/YELLOW/EARTH.
My problem is as follows, when reconnecting the cables to the New Drayton Digistat + 3 do I just connect the Red & Blue to the L & N Terminal on the new T/Stat and egnore the Yellow which has a red sleeve over it, and I presume is the live switch cable for the Micromark. The Drayon Manual tells me to egnore the neutral and earth connections as the unit is double insulated. any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Dan]

Welcome to Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice | Plumbers Forums | A forum for plumbers advice in the UK!

Welcome to UKPlumbersForums.co.uk Dave Box. Thanks for introducing yourself.

 

[tamz]

There are 2 versions of the Digistat. 22083 is battery powered and 22087 in mains powered.
Unfortunately you have bought the mains powered version so the wiring would need to be altered to enable it to work.

If you can change it for the 22083 version it is much simpler to wire using the red and yellow wires to C and on, and isolating the blue.

The red and yellow wires are the switch and the blue is a neutral.

 

[Dave Box]

There are 2 versions of the Digistat. 22083 is battery powered and 22087 in mains powered.
Unfortunately you have bought the mains powered version so the wiring would need to be altered to enable it to work.

If you can change it for the 22083 version it is much simpler to wire using the red and yellow wires to C and on, and isolating the blue.

The red and yellow wires are the switch and the blue is a neutral.

Hi Tamz, Thanks for your reply, It looks like I am stuck with the 22087 version , can you offer advice on how I can hard wire with the existing wiring previously discribed. Regards Dave

 

[tamz]

It needs to be a bit of a workaround to use the existing wires.

Basically you need to keep whatever timeswitch you have for the heating turned on to constant. This is to give you a live supply to the digistat.

Before you start you have to find out which of the wires at the stat is the live feed from the clock ie the red or yellow. It should be the red but as the stat was just a switch it was not too important so may be the yellow.

Test them before removing the old stat by turning the heating on at the timeswitch, turn stat down low and test. Preferrably use a multimeter as this would confirm the neutral but a neon screwdriver will work to tell you the live.

Lets say it is the red that is the live feed from the clock.

Fit the red and blue to L & N. Put a link between L and C and put the yellow to On.

That is it. Just remember to keep the old timeclock turned to constant for the heating. If it goes off your digistat will go off too.

There are other ways to do this but this is the easiest way.

 

[Dave Box]

It needs to be a bit of a workaround to use the existing wires.

Basically you need to keep whatever timeswitch you have for the heating turned on to constant. This is to give you a live supply to the digistat.

Before you start you have to find out which of the wires at the stat is the live feed from the clock ie the red or yellow. It should be the red but as the stat was just a switch it was not too important so may be the yellow.

Test them before removing the old stat by turning the heating on at the timeswitch, turn stat down low and test. Preferrably use a multimeter as this would confirm the neutral but a neon screwdriver will work to tell you the live.

Lets say it is the red that is the live feed from the clock.

Fit the red and blue to L & N. Put a link between L and C and put the yellow to On.

That is it. Just remember to keep the old timeclock turned to constant for the heating. If it goes off your digistat will go off too.

There are other ways to do this but this is the easiest way.

Hi Tamz, Once again thanks for your response and advice, Just on thing I am not sure of. I bought the Digistat + 3 as a direct replacement for my mechanical Micromark thermostat, does your advice mean that having done the wiring as you suggest I still have to have the Micromark connected.or can it be removed ?

 

[tamz]

Fit the digistat in it's place.

 

[Dave Box]

Fit the digistat in it's place.

Hi Tamz, Your response has been great, It Makes me look an idiot but it all finally makes sense, I have checked the terminal connections with a neon screwdriver and with the thermostat turned down to off. The Red Terminal shows power to the unit. The Yellow terminal only lights up indicating power when the stat is turned up a little. So following your wiring instructions the yellow goes to ON in the Digistat with a link from L to C.

 

[tamz]

So following your wiring instructions the yellow goes to ON in the Digistat with a link from L to C.

Yes. That's about all there is to it.

Sometimes it is harder to explain than actually do.

 

[Dave Box]

Yes. That's about all there is to it.

Sometimes it is harder to explain than actually do.

Once again Many Thanks. I will follow on with a further reply probably tommorrow letting you know how I have got on.
Best Regards
Dave Box

Once again Many Thanks. I will follow on with a further reply probably tommorrow letting you know how I have got on.
Best Regards
Dave Box

Hi Tamz, Success, after following your instructions a trouble free installation which only took a couple of minutes to do, it's a massive improvement on the Micromark, which was running OK but did not give me the progammable options that the Digistat + 3 does, it's very user friendly and easy to use. Once again Many Thanks for your Help and advice with this issue.
Best Regards
Dave Box