Copper/compression joints/electric cable embedded into a concrete floor issues

[Steve-O]

I've settled up just to get them out of my hair. I will be writing a letter of complaint to the MD outlining what exactly has happened and what its cost me out of my pocket and see if they respond. I'm not going to let it dominate my day though - i will just never use or recommend them again.

 

[Mick Helpful]

Re the heating pipe, expanded polythene pipe insulation should be alright. Try this site for alternatives/stockists - Denso anti-corrosion waterproofing and sealing products protecting steel pipes and structures. With regard to shielding the pvc cable, a chunk of srbp or an old pcb with the copper stripped off will help shield the pvc from the heat. Whatever you do, without moving the cable its dodgy The ideal solution is to run the cable away from the pipe as subjecting the cable to a high temperature will lower its current rating. Pvc is generally ok to 70C . The factors are the ambient[high] temp and the max. current taken by the cable. Depending on your maths capabilities you can work what the temp of the cable will reach under load. If the pvc catches fire you'll have big probs!


Whatever you do don't use solid polystrene or expanded polystrene. If it contacts the pvc, the pvc plasticiser will leach out giving you a green sticky slime and a rigid lump of pvc. In fact pvc cables should always be kept away from expanded polystyrene insulation or packing.

 

[Mick Helpful]

With regard to the pipes you won't solder them if there's water in them! The plonker who put them there in the first place should have run the pipes to drain cocks outside the building. Anyway I don't suppose there's any water in them now as your guys have chopped thru em. If the joints are encased in concrete you can't get at them to drain the water in them if there's no drain cocks, whatever jointing method you use

 

[Steve-O]

With regard to the pipes you won't solder them if there's water in them! The plonker who put them there in the first place should have run the pipes to drain cocks outside the building. Anyway I don't suppose there's any water in them now as your guys have chopped thru em. If the joints are encased in concrete you can't get at them to drain the water in them if there's no drain cocks, whatever jointing method you use

The wiring/pipework is part of the extension that the previous owner had done back in teh early 90's. Looks like a few bodges have been made!

The pipes are now functioning again and i have a working Rad in the room (another in teh same room is currently disconnected due to the wall being plastered). My idea was to bung up the expansion tank
's outlet and inlet, then drain the system using the drain tap located on disconnected rad's pipework out to the garden. Then cut into the pipework at the top of the T-Sections and attach some hosepipe with a pump of some description and remove the remaining water. I would then be able to solder the joints. I have a bit of room around the offending areas so i am confident providing the pipes are dry i can get a good seal. Finish off with wrapping in Denso/Petro tape.

Sounds do-able to me ? Or am i missing something?

- Noted on the polystyrene pipe insulation - will see if i can obtain the polythene version