10mm Pex Central Heating help needed please!

[dhb]

ok guys I am hoping somebody out there can help with a problem I have. I am in the process of installing a 10mm pex central heating system to the ground floor with solid floors. I have dropped flow and return from the first floor floor/ceiling cavity and am now trying to connect to the ground floor rads.

The problem I have is how do I connect the pipe to the rad valves without using elbows as the pipe will only bend so much before I risk kinking it. I am trying to avoid burying fittings or surface mounting pipes. The brick and plaster walls have been chased vertically.

Any views based on experience will be appreciated. Cheers

 

[Ch4 plumbing]

This is how it's done on a lot of modern sites now.

 

[brum]

Hi there I have seen guys use an outlet box single socket/switch back box mounted behind radiator
never done it though BES sell these outlet plates ref 16375 im not sure whether connections are made in box or tails are left long.I only saw them 1st fix stage and tails were left long.hope this helps..brum

 

[Ch4 plumbing]

Tails are left long to test, then run through box behind rad and into valve.

 

[brum]

A picture says a thousand words ..brum

 

[kay-jay]

i dont leave tails i thread flow behind stud through the outlet box loop it and feed it back and connect into the return.
can test all your pipes nice and easy and simply cut the loop in the centre and take the ends to each rad valve

 

[happyflyer]

i dont leave tails i thread flow behind stud through the outlet box loop it and feed it back and connect into the return.
can test all your pipes nice and easy and simply cut the loop in the centre and take the ends to each rad valve

Kay Jay,

I don't know how you do it for the money, does anyone break their neck over the loop....:50:

Tony

 

[happyflyer]

This is how it's done on a lot of modern sites now.

If I was to lower my sight so low as to use plastic this is how I would do it, neat, when I am 80 maybe I will start using it
bad knee and all that.

 

[kay-jay]

Kay Jay,

I don't know how you do it for the money, does anyone break their neck over the loop....:50:

Tony

loop is only left long enough for the ends to reach the valves not much of a hazard unless its a really long rad, which you dont get in new builds these days.


i dont know how i do it for the money either:yesnod:

 

[happyflyer]

Kay,

I bet you have got it wrong a time or too and I will find a push fit coupling and the back of the rad where you cut it short. :thinking:

 

[kay-jay]

Kay,

I bet you have got it wrong a time or too and I will find a push fit coupling and the back of the rad where you cut it short. :thinking:

not at all!



rad will get moved left or right to suit though.......

 

[stevetheplumber]

its actually quite a good system you can buy the rad valves with the chrome pushfit street elbows in the pack one advantge is you can lift rad of to paint behind
disadvantage is small rads can float on the brackets

 

[Ermintrude]

Plumbcenter £3 each . Bought loads of them when replacing trvs in new build. One end goes into £15mm trv other accepts 10mm

 

[kay-jay]

expensive for what they are, but they make the job quicker, easier and neater

 

[AWheating]

The biggest problem with this system and the small rads on new builds is the rads are easy to knock off there bracket which is a danger to kids.

On rads over a meter it's best to have single outlets near to each side of the rad to avoid a droopy pipe.

 

[happyflyer]

Plastic push fit it's "THE FUTURE" :24:

 

[happyflyer]

The biggest problem with this system and the small rads on new builds is the rads are easy to knock off there bracket which is a danger to kids.

On rads over a meter it's best to have single outlets near to each side of the rad to avoid a droopy pipe.

Decorators love them, just make sure the rads not hot before you take it off and lay it on the floor

 

[dhb]

The biggest problem with this system and the small rads on new builds is the rads are easy to knock off there bracket which is a danger to kids.

On rads over a meter it's best to have single outlets near to each side of the rad to avoid a droopy pipe.

Thanks to those who have made a positive contribution to my query, it is very much appreciated.

So just to summarize, the rads are mounted on a brick and plaster wall. Am I correct in assuming that the 'single outlet' mentioned is a specific one for central heating and that a joint of some description is inside to negate the tight bend I am trying to avoid?

Cheers

 

[happyflyer]

Plumbcenter £3 each . Bought loads of them when replacing trvs in new build. One end goes into £15mm trv other accepts 10mm

Ermi,

Are those your spanners???:thinking:

 

[Ermintrude]

Yeh hadn't washed them after few hours on welder/grinder.

No need for joints. One piece of tube from manifold to the above pictured elbow.

 

[happyflyer]

You need to wear gloves young man, if you want to still run your hands through ladies hair, ear defenders and goggles

 

[Ermintrude]

Hands are bad at moment. Normally use nitriles to keep them clean

 

[lame plumber]

Once upon a time there were standards to keep up.....................................

 

[IDCHAPPY]

Hands are bad at moment. Normally use nitriles to keep them clean

You big jessie

 

[happyflyer]

Hands are bad at moment. Normally use nitriles to keep them clean

Nitric Acid concentrate is good, never need wash them again Ermi

 

[Ermintrude]

Prefer to take float out of steam trap and use that

 

[brum]

Plumbcenter £3 each . Bought loads of them when replacing trvs in new build. One end goes into £15mm trv other accepts 10mm

Could do with a manicure big man..brum