Discuss Worcester boiler 24i junior problems in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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I guess the LP switch is a "low pressure" switch, not sure where it is located on your boiler, on the new Vaillant boilers they are subject to getting blocked with sediment and causes the boiler to lock out even when the pressure is correct.
Hope this helps, Martin
 
What is the LP switch and where is it please? My boiler is not doing CH or HW and the fault reset flashes. The blue light flashes on every 1 second. I've emptied the condense syphon. The CH pressure is 1.5 bar.

Please can anyone offer any further advice.

Cheers
The LP stands for low pressure switch and on this boiler it can get blocked with ****, get it cleaned out and it should be fine.
ps. it won't read correct pressure if the switch is faulty.
 
You must refill you con densate syphon prior to use to ensure poc dont escape into your home, another reason not to mess with boilers if you dont know what your doing
 
r u sure condensate is not blocked sounds like boilers flooding, firing in dhw but not ch check diverter valve ????
 
hello, the OP is describing the exact same fault & issue that my Greenstar 24i seems to have.

Just to complicate matters, we have one of our radiators disconnected at the moment (having some building work) and since the issues started this morning (flashing blue light, gurgling noises like running water inside the boiler, water being emitted from the boiler and lukewarm water / no heating) the sealed valve has started to leak everywhere :( A friend is coming round on Thursday (!) to help me put the radiator back on the wall and get it reconnected, so I can fill the system again (resting a 1.5bar, but goes to zero when hot water tap turned on) - is it worth me trying to get a plumber before then, or should I wait until the possible secondary issue is sorted first ??

Its very icy where we are - minus 8 this morning. I had a hot shower probably for around 10 mins, but water was lukewarm when my boyfriend showered a few hours later. Presume the condensate thingy has frozen as per previous advice :( The boiler is not flashing reset button anymore.

(this is my only my second post :) )
 
hello, the OP is describing the exact same fault & issue that my Greenstar 24i seems to have.

Just to complicate matters, we have one of our radiators disconnected at the moment (having some building work) and since the issues started this morning (flashing blue light, gurgling noises like running water inside the boiler, water being emitted from the boiler and lukewarm water / no heating) the sealed valve has started to leak everywhere :( A friend is coming round on Thursday (!) to help me put the radiator back on the wall and get it reconnected, so I can fill the system again (resting a 1.5bar, but goes to zero when hot water tap turned on) - is it worth me trying to get a plumber before then, or should I wait until the possible secondary issue is sorted first ??

Its very icy where we are - minus 8 this morning. I had a hot shower probably for around 10 mins, but water was lukewarm when my boyfriend showered a few hours later. Presume the condensate thingy has frozen as per previous advice :( The boiler is not flashing reset button anymore.

(this is my only my second post :) )

I think you need to get someone in to look at it, it could be a few things.

Eco
 
Dont forget aswell that after youve thawed the condense that you might still need to dry off the condense overflow sensors in the trap.
 
crikey it's like a foreign language. A friend called me when he heard the issue to say he also has similar issues when its cold and persuaded me to pour hot water on the plastic pipe that goes into the drain - magic - 5" of ice came out. So far so good. But my system is empty and I know I need to use the plastic key, but I've not managed to get the waterflowing ... forgive the terrible description ... I've pushed the plastic key into the black 'tube' thingy,next to the tube thingy with the white plastic 'nut' on the end. I've been quite firm as I've turned clockwise - it seems fairly well attached (is this good LOL ? ) but still no water coming into system. Seems I should be hand turning the nut did I read it right ? nut seems pretty tight. Maybe I need to keep turning the key thingy - feels like it is meeting reistance then 'slipping' ... can't get my stupid boyfriend to answer his phone (he knows how to get water in the system). Any ideas ?
 
oh - along with the ice, lots of water came out too - is that what you mean by drying off the overflow sensors ??
 
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