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Discuss Baxi 105HE flame failure in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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towelhound

Dear all,

I'm going to preface this with the answer to the obvious question. I am not gas safe registered. Answering the second question, I do not do gas work on my boiler, but I am an electrical engineer, so I can fault find electronics etc. A family friend does any work that requires the burner unit opening.

So, the story of our 105HE.

1) It was already fitted when we moved into the house in April 2009. No problems.

2) We had building work done last year and as part of the building work, the boiler was moved by the fitter for the building company. No problems. Periodically had to top up the central heating pressure. Clearly this suggested something wasn't right.

3) About May this year, it started complaining, I think the pump light was flashing. Essentially the pressure was falling too low in the central heating. over pressure. Had a terrible GSE come out and try to fix it, he changed diverter valve diaphragm, "serviced" it by sticking a probe in the flue, claimed the over-pressure valve had failed. (It had, but he didn't identify the reason and sure enough it carried on blowing and leaking pressure.) Terrible GSE stumped and asked if we wanted a new boiler.

4) Eventually casually chatted with family friend who came up with the solution. The expansion vessel had gone. Terrible GSE replaced it, the last bit of work he did for us. That problem went away.

5) Next and current problem. Periodically, the boiler needs resetting, as it goes through all of its fire up checks, starts igniting but doesn't light. This happens 3 times, then it needs resetting. Eventually, you get lucky and it ignites, after any number of resets.

6) A seemingly key piece of information. When the boiler is hot, it always reignites. If it is cold, it is quite likely that it won't.

7) After chatting with Kev (family friend and now our GSE) we tried changing both the flame sensing and spark electrodes. That seemed to work, and we had no resets for a week or so. However, we are beginning to get them again, although they are far less frequent. I can hear the ignition spark, so it is basically doing the same thing. Finally, I've tried disconnecting the ground electrode from the condensate trap as some people have recommended on the forums, that has made no difference at all. (It isn't blocked in any case.)

8) So, I have exhausted my knowledge, Kev is stumped too. Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance, and apologies for the length of this, just thought the history may be relevant.

Ta

Jamie
 
get your gas engineer to join up pm a member of admin or moderation his gs number, business name and engineer number and we will guide him through the fault and rectification of it,what we wont do is give out safety critical advice to non GSR or RGI members
 
Gasman,

Thanks for the advice, but I'll not be bugging Kev to join, since I'm sure he has other things to do in his spare time. (He doesn't live locally presently, so is only around at weekends and I dont want him to waste all of them with my boiler. However, debugging intermittent faults is a time consuming process, so I'm try to help how I can.)

What I was after was other known (common and uncommon) problems that may cause the flame failure that I could mention to him in case he has overlooked them. I've had too many unhelpful GSEs come round and charge ÂŁ60+ for 15 minutes who then refuse to return and sort the problem out when it rears its head later on.

To reiterate, I'm not about to open the burner unit of the boiler, I just want to understand what could be causing the fault so I can ask him what he thinks. The fault finding flow chart is suggesting changing the gas valve, which I will probably suggest to Kev.

What I'm trying to work out is how the warm (always ignites) / cold (sometimes ignites) piece of information fits in with this.

Thanks
 
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