3 port motorised valve wiring question.

[Dalminty]

Good evening everyone,
Question 1
I have just replaced my 3 port motorised valve head and wired it in.
When looking at my chocolate block connector the orange and grey wires are in different places than the diagram on the instructions shows.
As you look at the terminal block for all the wiring, there are 10 segmants to the chocolate block.
My wiring shows no 8 on the choc block a grey wire and no 7 on the choc bloc a orange wire.
On the instructions,no 8 shows orange and no 7 shows grey.
Could someone please tell me which is correct.

Question 2
Could the above wiring problem affect my heating programmer as I now can't have just hot water without having the heating on aswell.
Before I wired in the new valve I was getting heating on with water aswell.
The programmer seems now to be working the other way round.
The programmer is a Honeywell ST699.

Thanks everyone.
Dal

 

[SJB060685]

Grey is HW off and orange is to connect to boiler live. Without seeing your wiring centre I couldn’t see what’s what.

 

[Burger]

Good evening everyone,
Question 1
I have just replaced my 3 port motorised valve head and wired it in.
When looking at my chocolate block connector the orange and grey wires are in different places than the diagram on the instructions shows.
As you look at the terminal block for all the wiring, there are 10 segmants to the chocolate block.
My wiring shows no 8 on the choc block a grey wire and no 7 on the choc bloc a orange wire.
On the instructions,no 8 shows orange and no 7 shows grey.
Could someone please tell me which is correct.

Question 2
Could the above wiring problem affect my heating programmer as I now can't have just hot water without having the heating on aswell.
Before I wired in the new valve I was getting heating on with water aswell.
The programmer seems now to be working the other way round.
The programmer is a Honeywell ST699.

Thanks everyone.
Dal

What make is the motorised head?

 

[Dalminty]

Grey is HW off and orange is to connect to boiler live. Without seeing your wiring centre I couldn’t see what’s what.

Hi,Thanks for your reply.

 

[Dalminty]

What make is the motorised head?

The valve head was bought from toolstation and is boxed up as corgi.The valve assembly is a Banico zvm22.
Thanks for your reply
Dal.

 

[Riley]

Banico are kind of a Honeywellreplica.
if memory serves I am pretty sure that their heads are interchangeable. Have had a problem with a few of them failing in a short space of time

 

[Dalminty]

Banico are kind of a Honeywellreplica.
if memory serves I am pretty sure that their heads are interchangeable. Have had a problem with a few of them failing in a short space of time

Thanks Riley.
I have replaced the head and wired up exactly as the wires came out.
I used to put the heating on at the programmer and always have to put the water on aswell otherwise the boiler would not fire up.
Since changing the valve and wiring it in I have to put the heating on and the water which means that when summer comes the rads will be on.
Cheers Dal

 

[SJB060685]

Sounds like programmer is set to gravity?

 

[Dalminty]

Thanks SJB.
What does thst mean in English?

 

[Burger]

Good evening everyone,
Question 1
I have just replaced my 3 port motorised valve head and wired it in.
When looking at my chocolate block connector the orange and grey wires are in different places than the diagram on the instructions shows.
As you look at the terminal block for all the wiring, there are 10 segmants to the chocolate block.
My wiring shows no 8 on the choc block a grey wire and no 7 on the choc bloc a orange wire.
On the instructions,no 8 shows orange and no 7 shows grey.
Could someone please tell me which is correct.

Question 2
Could the above wiring problem affect my heating programmer as I now can't have just hot water without having the heating on aswell.
Before I wired in the new valve I was getting heating on with water aswell.
The programmer seems now to be working the other way round.
The programmer is a Honeywell ST699.

Thanks everyone.
Dal

Have a look here, doesn’t mention which numbers:
https://www.banicocontrols.com/uploads/media/instruction_954311.pdf

 

[SJB060685]

when you switch heating on at programmer does the HW light light up as well?

 

[S.P.S.]

It’s impossible to say if your wiring is correct, even with a picture really, as you need to trace wiring back from the programmer/stats.

When changing a motorised valve, did you put one wire in at a time, in place of the old valves wires ? Or did you take them all out and the put all the new ones in...?

As if it worked before it developed a fault, then it should work nownwith a replacement? I would guess you’ve wired it in wrong.

Stu.

 

[Dalminty]

Have a look here, doesn’t mention which numbers:
https://www.banicocontrols.com/uploads/media/instruction_954311.pdf

Thanks CBW.
What I think I need to do is check in the choc block what other wires the orange and grey wires are connected to.
Thanks for your time much appreciated
Dal

 

[Burger]

Thanks CBW.
What I think I need to do is check in the choc block what other wires the orange and grey wires are connected to.
Thanks for your time much appreciated
Dal

No worries, happy to help. I think you may have a programmer wiring issue as well. I could be wrong but you said in your question 2 and reply to Riley that you have always had to put hot water on also?

Thanks Riley.
I have replaced the head and wired up exactly as the wires came out.
I used to put the heating on at the programmer and always have to put the water on aswell otherwise the boiler would not fire up.
Since changing the valve and wiring it in I have to put the heating on and the water which means that when summer comes the rads will be on.
Cheers Dal

 

[Dalminty]

It’s impossible to say if your wiring is correct, even with a picture really, as you need to trace wiring back from the programmer/stats.

When changing a motorised valve, did you put one wire in at a time, in place of the old valves wires ? Or did you take them all out and the put all the new ones in...?

As if it worked before it developed a fault, then it should work nownwith a replacement? I would guess you’ve wired it in wrong.

Stu.

Thanks for your reply Stu.
I took a picture on my phone and done a diagram as wanted to make sure I done it properly.
It's just funny looking at a few wiring diagrams for the banico and honeywell valves the orange and grey wires are in different numbers on the choc block.
Cheers Dal

 

[Burger]

No worries, happy to help. I think you may have a programmer wiring issue as well. I could be wrong but you said in your question 2 and reply to Riley that you have always had to put hot water on also?

Out of interest, why did you replace the head?

 

[Dalminty]

Out of interest, why did you replace the head?

I replaced the head as was getting problems with heating not coming on or water on with no heating.I then put the lever down to man/open and it worked so changed the head.Had checked the valve spindle and that moved from left to right ok.
Cheers Dal

 

[SJB060685]

If the programmer was set to gravity then when you select CH you would get HW as well, you can confirm this by turning on CH at programmer and seeing if HW light lights up as well. If that’s not it then something has been wired up wrong from the start but like I and others have said it’s almost impossible for us to see exactly what’s going on without being there

 

[S.P.S.]

The reason why we say to trace the wiring is, the valves have the same colour to action. But who knows how/why/who wired it in originally, nothing is to say they followed the standard Honeywell Y plan wiring schedule, could be any manner of choc block order arangement.

Stu.

 

[Dalminty]

If the programmer was set to gravity then when you select CH you would get HW as well, you can confirm this by turning on CH at programmer and seeing if HW light lights up as well. If that’s not it then something has been wired up wrong from the start but like I and others have said it’s almost impossible for us to see exactly what’s going on without being there

If the programmer was set to gravity then when you select CH you would get HW as well, you can confirm this by turning on CH at programmer and seeing if HW light lights up as well. If that’s not it then something has been wired up wrong from the start but like I and others have said it’s almost impossible for us to see exactly what’s going on without being there

Thanks SJB.
I will have a look at the wiring to see if I can sort it out.
If not need to find a good heating engineer in Essex to sort it out.
Thanks Dal

 

[Dalminty]

The reason why we say to trace the wiring is, the valves have the same colour to action. But who knows how/why/who wired it in originally, nothing is to say they followed the standard Honeywell Y plan wiring schedule, could be any manner of choc block order arangement.

Stu.

Thanks Stu for your time.
Much appreciated.

 

[SJB060685]

If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.

 

[Dalminty]

If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.

Thanks SJB for all your help.I will take it off and have a look.
Cheers Dal.

 

[SJB060685]

Remember to isolate electrics again before exposing any live wires lol

 

[S.P.S.]

If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.

It’s a fair point mate, but his problem seems the other way to what you’d expect if the programmer was on gravity, also it was working fine before? My moneys on incorrect wiring of the valve.

But as above, double check your programmer isn’t on gravity, as mentioned. ie turn everything to off. Switch on the heating and see if the lights/selector show in for hot water also..

Stu.

 

[SJB060685]

I think he said it’s always been like this? As you know if it was set to gravity then selecting CH would bring on HW. I’m still a bit unsure of his problem as he’s said a couple things. Is he only getting HW when CH is on?

 

[S.P.S.]

That’s how I’ve read it!?

 

[SJB060685]

If that is the case then like you say that’s the opposite of what I’d expect from programmer set to gravity and it’s wired up wrong somewhere else

 

[Burger]

If that is the case then like you say that’s the opposite of what I’d expect from programmer set to gravity and it’s wired up wrong somewhere else

Might be worth getting an engineer or electrician in?

 

[SJB060685]

The other possibility is is the programmer is set up correctly but there’s a problem with cylinder stat or call from cylinder stat stat to boiler live, maybe a lose wire? Yes CBW this really needs a competent engineer as there’s only so much we can do from a screen on a phone or computer lol

 

[Dalminty]

The other possibility is is the programmer is set up correctly but there’s a problem with cylinder stat or call from cylinder stat stat to boiler live, maybe a lose wire? Yes CBW this really needs a competent engineer as there’s only so much we can do from a screen on a phone or computer lol

Thanks everyone.
I will try and make explaining a little simpler.
Before I fitted the new Valve head,when sliding the CH on it would not fire the boiler up so I had to slide the HW along to ignite the boiler.
Now after changing the valve head.
I slide the HW to on and it does not fire the boiler the same as it used to.I then slide the CH switch along and it fires the boiler.
This is what makes me think the problem is with the valve wiring as I have not touched the programmer,
Cheers Dal

 

[Burger]

Thanks everyone.
I will try and make explaining a little simpler.
Before I fitted the new Valve head,when sliding the CH on it would not fire the boiler up so I had to slide the HW along to ignite the boiler.
Now after changing the valve head.
I slide the HW to on and it does not fire the boiler the same as it used to.I then slide the CH switch along and it fires the boiler.
This is what makes me think the problem is with the valve wiring as I have not touched the programmer,
Cheers Dal

Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system

 

[Dalminty]

Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system

Thanks CBW.I could have seperate water,but when ever I put the heat on the water would have to be on to start the boiler.

 

[SJB060685]

I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?

 

[Dalminty]

I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?

Thanks SJB.I am going to have a good look at the wiring and report back to you all with what I find.
Thsnk you all for your time.Much appreciated.

 

[Dalminty]

Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system

Thanks CBW.I will have a good look at the wiring and report back to you.Much appreciated for your time.
Dal

 

[SJB060685]

Let us know what you find. I’m a bit busy for a an hour or so now but CBW and the others who commented can help. Before I go for now you say the old valve wouldn’t give CH without HW, that sounds like the second switch had packed up (assuming it’s the same principle inside as a Honeywell).

 

[Burger]

I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?

Let us know what you find. I’m a bit busy for a an hour or so now but CBW and the others who commented can help. Before I go for now you say the old valve wouldn’t give CH without HW, that sounds like the second switch had packed up (assuming it’s the same principle inside as a Honeywell).

I think someone quoted earlier that they are similar to Honeywell.

Dal, did you try the link I sent earlier regarding the Corgi valve? https://www.banicocontrols.com/uploads/media/instruction_954311.pdf

Either way, let us know how you get on. Ciao for now.

 

[SJB060685]

CBW you’re a legend, I’ve screenshot that info

 

[Wbjimmy]

If you decide to try different wiring combinations in your connector box make sure your programmer is independently fused with a 3amp fuse! I incorrectly wired a replacement three way valve and fried mine because it had a 13amp fuse.

 

[Burger]

If you decide to try different wiring combinations in your connector box make sure your programmer is independently fused with a 3amp fuse! I incorrectly wired a replacement three way valve and fried mine because it had a 13amp fuse.

Oops! You live and learn

 

[SJB060685]

If you decide to try different wiring combinations in your connector box make sure your programmer is independently fused with a 3amp fuse! I incorrectly wired a replacement three way valve and fried mine because it had a 13amp fuse.

Am I reading this right. You accidentally wired up a new three port wrong (it happens to all of us) and because there was a 13amp fuse you fried the programmer before fuse blew? That I understand but there should only ever be one fuse on these systems (apart from any that might be in boiler), have I read that wrong?

 

[Wbjimmy]

Yes. Thats exactly what I did. There is one isolating fused switch in my airing cupboard which protects the control box, programmer, 3 way valve and cylinder thermostat. I inadvertently wired up a replacement 3 port valve wrongly and because the isolating switch had been wrongly fused with a 13amp instead of 3amp fuse it burnt out the programmer! So I ended replacing the programmer - as well as the fuse!

 

[SJB060685]

Ah I see. Yes I’m fully aware of how a fuse protects the system and components, however I initially read your comment as you had two switched fused spur lives into the heating circuit. As you know this is a no lol. Was on a job once and the heating circuit had two lives to it through two switched fused spurs, we didn’t realise, isolated the first then got a shock when taking out some of the wiring. Never again lol