Users can remove all display ads (not sponsors) for a small fee. Click for info (must be logged in)

Discuss steel barrel to copper connections in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
D

damonsmith

Evening all

Would someone please give me some advice on available fittings to connect onto cut ended (i.e. not threaded) 1 1/4" steel barrel pipework, and then onto copper.

My client wants to add onto the end of a run of existing radiators, and because there is no easy access to a threaded joint, the plumber I'm working with has said it can't be done, however I've seen steel to copper connections on domestic water (presumably the same principle would apply to heating?)

Thanks in advance
 
The usual answer is Philmac or Plasson couplers, however, neither range is rated for central heating type temperatures. Best solution is to thread the exposed end of the steel pipe, then use a female iron to metric connector, if necessary followed by reducing coupling down to required pipe size.
 
Why not hire a manual threader? Or strip back to a fitting.
How old is your plumber?
 
Just to easy to hire a threader for a couple of Hrs. that's if you have the room to get on end of pipe ! & know what your doing !!
 
The usual answer is Philmac or Plasson couplers, however, neither range is rated for central heating type temperatures. Best solution is to thread the exposed end of the steel pipe, then use a female iron to metric connector, if necessary followed by reducing coupling down to required pipe size.
Sadly we can't get enough access to the cut ends of pipe to get on a die to cut a thread.
 
You could use a Viking Johnson aka a VJ adaptor
Cheers - don't suppose you have a link do you? I've tried google, but the only results I get are for mahoosive pipe connectors.
 
Why not hire a manual threader? Or strip back to a fitting.
How old is your plumber?
Therein lies the problem - the plumber is about 12...
...but can't get enough access to manually cut a thread, and there's no easily accessible joint in the vicinity to break back to
 
Thanks to everyone for their replies thus far - if anyone has used a Viking Johnson adaptor and has a link for one, please let me know as that would seem the way to go.
 
would think viking johnsons coupling would be hard to tight up inside a wall / no access

and maybe your plumber hasnt seen /used one of these or he isnt commercial, very good and handy

R520025-Detail_b487f109-385d-44a9-b815-cf03ac83bee9.png


rems eva
 
Been a month and most likely sorted, but if not, what about welding on a threaded part and then female fittings to metric as above.

I have seen LCS stick welded, 1 3/4" or 2" if I rightly remember.
 
As long as you use the correct gasket.

Design & Specifications of Piping Systems
www.vikingjohnson.com Viking Johnson Design Data 5
Design Data
The Viking Johnson system is suitable for an enormous range
of pipework applications and it is therefore impossible to give
a comprehensive list of potential uses. In general terms, the system
is suitable for virtually any pipeline, above or below ground level,
working within the following typical parameters:
Working Pressure
Up to 100 bar (1450psi), according to size and type of product. Up
to full vacuum. Higher pressures are available on request.
Temperature
Limited by gasket grade used, but within the range -60°C to +200°C
(-75°F to +390°F)
Note: At elevated temperatures, accelerated gasket relaxation will
occur, leading to reduced life of fitting
Suitable for
Water, gas, oil, petrochemicals, sewage, powdered solids,
granular solids, air. Subject to gasket grade used and product/
pipe limitations.
 
Evening all

Would someone please give me some advice on available fittings to connect onto cut ended (i.e. not threaded) 1 1/4" steel barrel pipework, and then onto copper.

My client wants to add onto the end of a run of existing radiators, and because there is no easy access to a threaded joint, the plumber I'm working with has said it can't be done, however I've seen steel to copper connections on domestic water (presumably the same principle would apply to heating?)

Thanks in advance


If you want to connect to 11/4 GB go up a size in brass straight connector this does work as I have tried this on 1/2 GB and used a 310 straight connector Irish fitting might have to clean the black paint off GB but it does work on 1/2 GB it will hold a test pressure of 6 Bar the equivalent in a Irish 310 would be a 610 metric

Hope this helps
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to steel barrel to copper connections in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

I have a hot water cylinder which has low carbon steel pipework to it - I have tried to add some pictures I need to replace the cylinder because...
Replies
12
Views
1K
T
I have recently moved house and would like to move a radiator from a side wall, to one below the window as is more pleasing to the eye. I...
Replies
3
Views
2K
R
Greetings, esteemed community members, I find myself in possession of a remote and highly inaccessible plot of land, devoid of any utilities. On...
Replies
4
Views
620
I need to replace an old leaking kitchen tap at a rental property and having fitted one of these before I've decided to go for the Cooke and Lewis...
Replies
12
Views
3K
We live in a terraced row (SW London) and our neighbours are currently in the process of finalising their extension. There is a potential...
Replies
5
Views
2K
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock