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Is there any tips on removing an old immersion heating element,i have tried soaking in wd40 but have bent 3 bars when using with the large removal socket, just won,t budge.
 
Monument deep box immersion spanner (google images) and a hammer.

I gave up once and replaced the whole hot water cylinder (having asked the customer if he wanted to try and remove it). Heater and cylinder were both around 20 years old.
 
It always troubles me that I'll damage the tapping on the cylinder when they are in that tight.
 
Can't beat a bit of brute force , try tightening it a bit then undoing it
 
a good spanner , a big lump hammer,and a bit of brute force,might take a while, but end results the same.. 1 immersion removed.
 
Have you tried heating it up?. Also are touch sure it needs a new element and not just a stat.

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The deep box scanners are no good because the holes for the tommy bar are too high. I use a flat ring spanner which you can wallop to tighten then loosen.

I have also removed them with a very blunt cold chisel and a hammer by striking boss with a glancing blow. About 40 degrees angle

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The method I use, that has never let me down is.....a immersion box spanner....and onto that a pair of 24" stilsons.

That gives you two foot of leverage that won't bend.

If it's really stiff, you can give it a bit of heat with the blow torch.

I've never had to do as tweaky boy suggests and cut the immersion up with a grinder.....though I did have a leaking cylinder that I couldn't get the element out of (to put into the new cylinder). I ended up putting a new one in.

Warn the client you could damage the cylinder as the element is siezed in place. That way if you do over do it, you don't have to shell out for a new cylinder. It wouldn't be your fault if it can't be removed without damage.
 
I do a lot of commercial 9 and 12kw heaters.
24" stillsons plus a 2ft length of tube added, never fails.
Just stillsons should do on a 3kw.
If the boss is going to rip out, it's going to rip out.

Wd won't help
Heat will.
 
Heat is the key with stuck immersions, i just heat around the edge of the face with the flat ring spanner on the immersion to protect the insulation
 
Heat is the key with stuck immersions, i just heat around the edge of the face with the flat ring spanner on the immersion to protect the insulation

how do you mean use the ring spanner to protect the imersion?
 
The spanner acts as a heat shield to protect the insulation from getting burnt
 
Wd 40 is no use whatsoever. Brute force, stillsons. heat or a hammer and chisel. Never failed to get one out yet and never damaged a cylinder (apart from a bit foam cut off).
 
Heat it up and I don't mean a brief tickle with the lamp, give it some welly and it'll loosen easily.
 
What you need is monument 361t immersion box ring spanner. While the cylinder is still full give the handle a sharp whack with lump hammer. Once it has moved a wee bit it has broken the seal and the water in the cylinder will stop it distorting. Now drain down as much as necessary and it will unscrew Nice and easily, no mucking about with heat or WD40. Only had one immersion fail to come out in the last twenty years using this method.


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That monument spanner looks good - not seen those before.

Might have to add one to my toolbag :)
 
Wouldn't bother with any of above ,,,,tell them its seized due to corrosion and is early stages of pinhole in a cylinder (get what am getting at :phone:
 
That monument spanner looks good - not seen those before.

Might have to add one to my toolbag :)

Far superior to the other types for installing them as well.


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