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High woody, no didn't get around to it. Removed all tiles off the other side of bathroom and found lots of loose electrical cables going in all directions and not in conduit. Sparky said not good. So now have to wait for him to re-route them. Is he right in saying that cables shouldn't be routed in walls in bathrooms?
 
Well after all the info you guys gave me the clients ended up getting the place plastered. And now, all of the walls are wonky ane I cannot get a square edge any where. Tried cutting out bits of wall and it is a no go. 20130722_172858.jpg
 
I don't do tiling. She has oganised someone else. Think I am going to learn and insist that I do all the dot and dabbing and tiling from now on as this is just too much.

All the pipework is put together with compression fittings and I kicked a pipe and nudged it now I see a drip coming down the back of a corner unit in kitchen. Not looking forward to getting to that.

Must be nice when you work as a couple as then you can laugh at it. But on your own, it is not such fun. Below are some images of what else I found on this little cracker
 
How much leeway do you get when installing shower screen? As if the tray is 1200 including the upstand, and the tiles go over the upstand, it will be less than 1200mm. So is there room to play with?
 
Recessd sliding door one that is. Here must be some as with the walls 1200 without tiles, and the hardibacker needs to cover upstans then around 30 to 40mm will be lost. If you know what I mean
 
Check before you buy it mutley some have big adjustment levels some have very small ones, sometimes you're better off getting an 1100 door with a couple of extension pieces
 
most go slightly over by 10 mm but reduce a lot more usually 40mm or possibly more i wouldnt overlap the hardibacker just the tiles
 
Oh no, am going to need it to reduce around 35 to 50mm. Cannoy see anu thing in instructions about it though.
 
From williams and co. Was 119 including tap and waste. Looked at wickes but it was kind of the same price for the size and I was getting all my gear from them so went with them. Good build quality too
 
mutley racers said:
From williams and co. Was 119 including tap and waste. Looked at wickes but it was kind of the same price for the size and I was getting all my gear from them so went with them. Good build quality too
Click to expand...

That's a cracking price mate, nice one!
 
Clear, but when you silicone around the inside of the tray and down the sides at the front, do you do this in white? And how do you transition to the clear at the front? Bcause your supposed to silicone tray before fitting screen, or do you just install screen and silicone back and sides of try inside in white and then around the outside of shower tray in clear?
 
20130731_190617.jpg

Well, the shower screen was too big. So I just cut 10mm of top and bottom rail and hey presto. It's snug like a bug now. Quite a mission to move around on your own those shower trays are. Was surprised I didnt shatter it after hearing the stories on here
 
Do behind the channels when you put em in in white put screen in drill it all in place run the white round inside then do all the outside in clear
 
Just wondering if anyone has any good for ways to shorten the silver rings that cover th pipe holes on the shower valve. I left it all connected for tiler so he could see my distances. He removed it and put it together without them coverings and so now the pipes way too short
 
mutley racers said:
Just wondering if anyone has any good for ways to shorten the silver rings that cover th pipe holes on the shower valve. I left it all connected for tiler so he could see my distances. He removed it and put it together without them coverings and so now the pipes way too short
Click to expand...

Surely someone has had to do this before!!?
 
I guess for this reason, it is good if you can do all the stuff involved. Not just the plumbing. There wouldn't be half the issues there is when all different trades on 1 job
 
Its this one..its an external bar one with 3/4 connectors. I didn't really want to have to buy anything. Losing cash on this job. Sometimes though, when it has been going on and you just want to get it finished, I don't care what it costs. I just want it finished
 
Mutley could you wind a tap extension into the back plate so brings your offset its out a bit further, or havr you thrown them out and used a fixing kit
 
Now that is an option. Use an 1/2 inch male to 1/2 inch female behind offset parts. Then I would never know if it were to leak or not as it will be concealed
 
mutley racers said:
Now that is an option. Use an 1/2 inch male to 1/2 inch female behind offset parts. Then I would never know if it were to leak or not as it will be concealed
Click to expand...

Wind em in then offsets put 3/4 blank caps on test then put bar shower on
 
I find it easier to use the fixing kits instead of those annoying angle things set pipes level at 150mm centers done a LOT easier imho
 
Is that the metal bar kit? I hate those offset things also. Prefer the ons with compression on end of valves. Then you can leave as long as you like and cut to length
 
20130730_140615.jpg

Does anyone know what fitting I need to go into this? I have tried 2inch pipe. 2inch rubber boss things. 2 inch reducers. But nothing fits. It came with a rubber reducer but I threw it away. Think it's from wickes
 
Not a straight bar two round backplates with olive inside , goggle bristan fixing kit
 
A tenner less the cost of 2 wallplate elbows and a lot of fkn around :smile:
On stud walls i drill 2 16mm holes @150mm centres through a dwang (noggin) Gives you something solid to screw into.
 
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