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Deleted member 97000
Problem is mate he’s asking on a uk forum so I don’t think we can advise
This is fully understandable Riley and therefore I will not ask for any more advice on the subject; on this forum or elsewhere. Although I have always been aware that gas work in particular involves the appropriate certificates etc by law in the UK, I had no idea that a store bought water heater (from a store specialising in home electronics/ appliances - it is Bulgaria after all!) required a G3 certificate etc to install so I'm quite surprised by this, but at the same time have decided to refrain from carrying out any work in view of what has been brought to my attention.
I am under the impression that our European cousins allow heated water from sealed systems to expand up the incoming cold main in lieu of an expansion vessel on unvented systems.
Now this is pretty interesting and I appreciate your input. I've also done a little of my own research. Combined with I have read and what you have shared, I may not necessarily even require an EV after all. Of course it may relieve slight problems in pressure, but it may not be fully required in my particular install due to these claims:
"
Closed Water Supply Systems
In an open system where expanding water can push back into the city water supply, there is rarely any problem. However, many homes have a closed water supply system, which is a water system equipped with a one-way valve such as a backflow valve, check valve or pressure-reducing valve. In a closed system, this extra water pressure from thermal expansion can cause the most damage because the extra water pressure cannot push back into the city water supply and therefore has nowhere to go."
There is no prefitted check valve anywhere in my entire installation. There are simply just 2 gate valves (property and service) and between those, the water meter. I now know that the expansion can backflow because there isn't a check valve present anywhere. So there is no confusion, although maybe irrelevant, there is no central heating anywhere to take into consideration. What I failed to mention is that the pipe run to and from the water heater is VERY long (possibly 10-15 or possibly even 20m) and I believe that this could be the cause of my pressure problems, not due to the lack of an EV. I'm not asking for any advice, but any thoughts regarding this would be useful for when I do eventually manage to get a plumber to site. Otherwise, I think we are pretty much done and I'm satisfied. At the same time, I don't feel this thread has been a 'dead end'. It's given me an alternative approach to tackle this issue I face.