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Remedial question perhaps but is there a knack to removing floorboards intact without splitting or is their a specific tool to use? I have a whole floor to lift and I'd like to reuse the timber if possible.
 
I use my fein cutter and run it through the tongue and grooves then a couple of wide bladed chisels and hammer. Patience is the key.
 
I use recipricating saw,military nail puller (brill tool)and chisels.I know a lad that uses a circular saw but he had a very wet experience with it. lol
 
Circular saw for me, down the tongues then across the joist, always set to about 16mm for standard 18mm flooring so no chance of hitting pipes (went through a gas pipe once, quickly learnt) and then lift with a board lifter like this
4049
 
board lifter hammer and circular saw, if i had the time to worry about the floorboards i would cut the tongue out before lifting, but i dont so usually just butcher the floorboards. Sometimes i hammer the floor lifter along the tongue to split it and makes it easier to lift board but its the hidden screws/nails that you dont see which always cause them to split.
 
A pick is quickest :smile:

It is also quickest for getting joiners to remember to leave hatches :lol:
 
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i normally use a cir saw or rip if close to skirting. zip down the t and g and lift with thin bolster/electricians bolster and claw hammer.
 
floor board lifter and a chop saw the axe is not very good at removing floorboards whole:frown2:
 
If you want them to come out without splitting, stanley knife down the tongue, punch the nails through the boards with a punch and use a bolster to lift the boards. Where you need to cut them spring the boards and use a tenon saw to get a nice neat cut or use a multi tool.

I've seen too many floors destroyed because people have laid into them with power tools without thinking. Taking the gentle approach also means a lot less time clearing up sawdust that the rip snorter has thrown all over the room.
 
best stop and think before you attack a board with a circular saw as they are powerful and inaccurate.

I have seen many places where pipework is running just under the floor, not with 50mm depth as recommended . . . . Snag one of these with a circ saw and it is all over.

I use a fein type tool if i don't know as they are more precise and relatively gental.

I have a chisel/screw driver which is my number one tool for many things - including lifting manhole covers and floorboards without cutting. It is much thinner than the bolster and can be wacked home with a hammer.

it is amazing how many things this tool can do - I have even removed tiles with it!

It is steel reinforced through the centre. What a piece of kit!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-Demolition-Screwdriver-Slotted-0-67-543/dp/B000Y8W0Q0
 
best stop and think before you attack a board with a circular saw as they are powerful and inaccurate.

Really? The only tool that you can set the depth to and cut in an almost perfect straight line without thinking to much about it?

Don't blame the tool if you go through pipes and cables, unless they've notched the bottom of the board out, you've got no excuse!
 
If you want them to come out without splitting, stanley knife down the tongue, punch the nails through the boards with a punch and use a bolster to lift the boards. Where you need to cut them spring the boards and use a tenon saw to get a nice neat cut or use a multi tool.

I've seen too many floors destroyed because people have laid into them with power tools without thinking. Taking the gentle approach also means a lot less time clearing up sawdust that the rip snorter has thrown all over the room.


No power tools where's the fun in that mike ?
 
taking up a whole floor is diiferent to lifting one board you want a big gorilla bar and club hammer start from a loose board and work end to end of each board
 
usually a cordless rip saw and razor sharp chisles take your time and they go back down a lot easier! i allways drill a 50mm home with the hole saws in a spot that is well out of the way messure the depth then transfer that to the rip saw bingo! to date i havnt hit a pipe, have to be acurate though dont let the apprentice set the saw to 18mm (so you think and it ends up been 20)! luckily no harm caused but he cleaned the van for a week!
 
Circular saw, we usually call ours "the floorboard saw" Fein type cutters sound handy but we've never felt the need to fork out on one for floorboards in 20 years.

Circular saw, hammer and chisel will do fine if you only want to spend what you have to in my opinion.
 
I like to carefuly feather my way through with the Fein, there's just too many pipes and cables in shallow notches for me.

Circular saw, really? Cut through your hand, ring main cable, 28mm primary and cover the room in dust for good measure.
 
i have a fein saw but find the blades too expensive to use all the time i also have a 110v makita dust extractor and have never hada complaint about dust and luckily with how i set the depth i have never hit anything
 
A circular saw is one of the safest ways to lift floors. Learn how to use it and you won't hit anything (or take your hand or leg off) but if it scares you, best leave it alone.
 
.....a big hooky bar and mash hammer. Just blame it on the joiner afterwards.
 
Circular saw is quickest, just have to be carfull about setting the depth. Though the multi tools are good for 'surgical' work
 
If speed is your thing and the joiners won't leave hatches or you just hate them because they are joiners, this is the quickest for T&G
Pickaxe.jpg

or for chipboard, one of these

SledgeHammer.jpg

You can get away with this if you can do the "and?" look and probably more if they can see you are not kidding.
 
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