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gti8vdave
Hi Guys,
Need you're expertise please.
My heating system is very basic I don't have a termostat, all I have is a knob on the boiler to turn the heat up on the water.
This was a problem as in the morning I needed the heating on but also the hot water for a shower. But because the central heating water heats the water in my hot water cylinder means i have to crank my boiler up but in turn means my rads go red hot as they didn't have any controls on them except the lounge.
I have five rads in my house 2 x bedrooms, 1 x bathroom, 1 x lounge and 1 x kitchen. I have since fitted two drayton trv4's on the bedrooms the bathroom rad is turned off, the lounge rad has an old fashioned knob which you can turn up and down and the kitchen rad is the same as the bathroom but the valve is constantly stuck on.
I want to fix the Kitchen rad by putting another Drayton TRV4 on but looking around the net i have seen people saying that if you have trv's fiited you need to fit an automatic by pass valve, however I have also read that you can get away without fitting a bypass valve if you leave one rad without a trv to maintain the flow of water although it is not an economical solution.
I was thinking in my case this could work for me because i could stick a TRV on the kitchen rad and then leave the bathroom rad on which would kind of act as a bypass valve.
My only other idea would be to fit a basic thermostatic valve to the rad in the kitchen which i am thinking i should have done at the beginning with the two bedroom rads and taking the trv's off the bedroom rads and replacing those with basic valves too. or fitting a bypass valve.
my boiler is a 1998 glow worm ultimate basic jobbie, please could you confirm the above, I have spent alot researching this on the net and have found nothing so I am thinking there will be alot of people out there which would benefit from this question.
Many Thanks. D
Need you're expertise please.
My heating system is very basic I don't have a termostat, all I have is a knob on the boiler to turn the heat up on the water.
This was a problem as in the morning I needed the heating on but also the hot water for a shower. But because the central heating water heats the water in my hot water cylinder means i have to crank my boiler up but in turn means my rads go red hot as they didn't have any controls on them except the lounge.
I have five rads in my house 2 x bedrooms, 1 x bathroom, 1 x lounge and 1 x kitchen. I have since fitted two drayton trv4's on the bedrooms the bathroom rad is turned off, the lounge rad has an old fashioned knob which you can turn up and down and the kitchen rad is the same as the bathroom but the valve is constantly stuck on.
I want to fix the Kitchen rad by putting another Drayton TRV4 on but looking around the net i have seen people saying that if you have trv's fiited you need to fit an automatic by pass valve, however I have also read that you can get away without fitting a bypass valve if you leave one rad without a trv to maintain the flow of water although it is not an economical solution.
I was thinking in my case this could work for me because i could stick a TRV on the kitchen rad and then leave the bathroom rad on which would kind of act as a bypass valve.
My only other idea would be to fit a basic thermostatic valve to the rad in the kitchen which i am thinking i should have done at the beginning with the two bedroom rads and taking the trv's off the bedroom rads and replacing those with basic valves too. or fitting a bypass valve.
my boiler is a 1998 glow worm ultimate basic jobbie, please could you confirm the above, I have spent alot researching this on the net and have found nothing so I am thinking there will be alot of people out there which would benefit from this question.
Many Thanks. D
Thing is though fuzzy the op sounds like they have no control what so ever apart from the boiler thermostat. From what they've described the whole system is either on or off. That put a picture in my mind of the whole lot, cylinder included running on the same pumped circuit. If that is the case then the flow through the cylinder circuit is always going to be open so the need for a bi-pass is not necessary. A lot of assumptions I know and the only way to know for definite is a visit and physical inspection yeh? I just thought though, what if the hot water is actually gravity fed and the op has this work around and thinks everything needs to be on for h/w when it may well not be the case?
