Discuss Oil fired Rayburn persistent fumes after service. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net
Isaac, that is not unusual on vaporising burners - the inner wick will light when the burner door is closed and the combustion air is being drawn.
You are correct, the oil flows to the inner burner first.
Your interpretation with the burner rings is correct. When the burner door is open, you do not get the see the same burner flame picture as it is in use with the door closed.
You can test this if you wish by marking the inner wick - then putting the range into operation.
Hi , I’m an oil engineer and the only thing i can say has the oil line been pressure tested?
Haven't read all of the above comments so forgive me if this has been mentioned. How thorough were you when you serviced it last. It could be a partial blockage again. Did you put fire cement around well plug? Did you check oil depth when serviced?
Wooshing on an atmospheric burner is often intermittent combustion air
What Brambles is suggesting is maybe you have a problem with air supply to burner. If you have pets or anything else that could restrict airflow and/or oil flow into burner then you could experience problems.
Some well plugs are a good deal and don't need fire cement, others require to be sealed, you want the oil flowing into channels and each ring before it vaporized and ignites, if vapor is escaping from plug you could potentially have a whooshing or similar noise when it ignites as well as sooting up etc.
The reason I ask what the oil depth was is because if it's too high ie, not 4 - 5 mm but more then the burner can cause a crackling noise which I believe you mentioned above.
Do you have an anti down draft cowl fitted,
I would go back to the posts of last October and set up the Burner again from first principles. Check that the flue restrictor plate is correctly sized and installed and that all the combustion air vents are clear and free flowing.
In your last post you indicate that there are adjustments that you cannot make. What are these?
As previously stated - rather than service the burner of an older vaporising range (which by their nature are temperamental) in situ, I swap out the burner pot / shells with a serviced spare. Then refurbish the removed burner and swap back at the next service.
IF it is as simple as the well plug needing fire cement then you cleaning out the burner would of removed the carbon that would of been creating a seal and stopping the vapour from escaping.
You have to remember that these burners are designed to run constantly and will be exposed to extreme temperatures, so wear and tear is expected over the years.
Apologies that I don’t have a simple quick fix - but with perseverance you will find the gremlin (s)
Question 1. Crackling can be caused by too high a oil level but if you've checked the oil depth routinely and are happy with result and the OCV and burner are solid then we can probably eliminate that.
It could also be caused by a blocked or partially blocked metering stem.
you said it was the only appliance correct?
Is there a pattern to this whooshing? Ie. Every 5 minutes for example
Is it happening on both high and low fire?
You say you checked flow rates. How did you check, where did you check and what were your readings?
is the appliance struggling to get up to temperature during all this?
it needs to be removed and visually inspected. WARNING this is a safety critical mechanical part and if not replaced correctly could flood the burner.
The best route forward is to remove and rebuild the burner system, checking each of the key points - very often with atmospheric burners, the issue is more than the resolution one specific problem.
As Brambles has said Issac your best bet would be to strip and start again checking all points.
Firstly I just want to apologise that Brambles or I haven’t been able to give you a quick fix, as Brambles said these burners can be problematic and often there is more than one culprit.
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