Logistics / scheduling for bathrooms

[WaterTight]

Cheers justlead. He wants one incase of boiler probs. Good idea with the basin. Seems like the real key is to work around others as little as humanly possible.

 

[dontknowitall]

The way I work is (assuming change of bath, basin, WC and shower over bath):

(Days are approximate!)

Day 1 - rip out
Knock tiles off wall over bath when it's in place - keeps mess down!
Turn off water, stop ends/isolating valves on pipes and turn on water for rest of house asap.
Remove old suite.
This process usually takes 1/2 day but if wallpaper to be removed could take rest of the day.
Good clean up, removing floorboards if necessary for pipework alterations.

Day 2
Repair walls if necessary and paint ceiling if required
New pipework and ensure I've all plumbing fittings - if not buy that evening or next morning before day starts
Electrician/plasterer as required (so painting would be next day)

Day 3
Floor

Day 4
Fit shower pipework to wall
Fit bath

Day 5-6
Tiling, woodwork

Day 7
Fit basin and WC and clean up room

My estimate would be for 8 (maybe 10) days. I never quote as it's only when you remove tiles and other stuff that you really know what you're facing.


Not saying this is the best way for things to be done, but it's what works for me.

 

[Phil]

Regarding the state of the walls for the tiler, some are more picky than others. The walls have to be reasonably flat with no loose plaster or old adhesive everywhere.

If the floor is to be tiled he will need to address any deflection (bounce) and put noggins in if needed, most tilers now will only tile on Hardiebacker/no more ply or similar as tiling on ply is frouned upon these days. This will affect the bath panel height but with it being a steel bath its probably not a P shaped bath which you really don't want to cut the bottom off if you can help it.

He may just overboard with Hardiebacker but if he's dodgy he might think he can tile onto 6mm ply or even straight onto chipboard if he really wants trouble later on. If he uses cement boards make sure he lays them on flexible adhesive and tapes the joins as well as screwing them down.

 

[Guest123]

I bought a couple of cheap chemical loos from a local caravan dealer. Easier and less mess than flushing out with buckets. Also don't have to worry about stopping early to put a loo in temporary until next day.

 

[AWheating]

All great advice, cheers AWHeating.


Also he wants a steel bath. Are they liftable by one man upstairs? No idea how heavy they are. I'm plenty strong, regular weightlifter - just not Mr T.

steel baths are quite light really, one man lift no problems. what you will find is they dont have very good leg adjustment and fixing positions so you will be best to have some timber battons around the back and sides (and maybe under legs) for support and plenty of sealant.

best to have tiles going under bath and bath panel sat ontop, gives a cleaner finish and makes removal of bath panel alot easier, fit a timber batton on the floor to tile to and high enough to be able to secure bath panel to later.

 

[kay-jay]

i would leave original toilet in til all else is done. just put it on a long flexible feed and long flexi waste so it provides access to rear, do this during the initial rip-out. i do this so there is no chance of accidental damage or tile adhesive or any other crap buggering up the new w/c.

i would probably go with a decent thermo shower rather than leccy.