First Job

[jaydebruyne]

I'm going to look at a job on Thursday but I wanted to run it past you first.

They're friends of my girlfriend and have said they've already had a plumber out who stated he couldn't fix it as he'd end up cracking the granite worktop.

The tap body is loose, the whole tap turns. I'm thinking the backnut needs tightening. It's quite a large backnut and apparently it's almost impossible to get to.

As a bid to start off with small jobs, I'm determined to have a go (within reason - reason being I'm not going to damage the worktop).

I'm thinking, even if I cut away a little more of the wood on the right to get some pump pliers in there to grip the nut, could I not, in small increments, turn the tap body and tighten it that way? Returning the tap body to the original position after each small turn. I'm assuming they're flexi's at the end of the tails, if not I'd have to isolate the water and disconnect the tails to do this.

What do you think?

As I can't upload images at the moment, here are a couple of links:

 

[kris]

Yeh just the nut that needs tightning but the plumber that says cant fix obviously cant think for himself either. Youl have to use one of the plastic triangle spacers and that will allow you to spread the pressure being put on granite. I see theres ply there already but if theyd cut a neeter hole and not made it bigger than tap nut it wouldve helped. Yoyl have to remove enough ply so the spacer will fit it as not enough length on tap threads. I cant remember the name if the plastic spacer. Maybe tap spacer....if spacer is too thick then maybe a home made lead washer will sufice mate... good luck

 

[kris]

Do you have the big tap spanner ( the big socket one) this can only be used if pipes are cut then re coupled. Or just use the doofer with 22mm jaw (back nut spanner) maybe doofer is scottish word for the tool im not sure...

 

[kris]

Once you do that jay youl show your friends that your the man to call and not the other plumber and theyl tell there friends so on and so forth. Best thing ever in business is word of mouth..

 

[jaydebruyne]

Do you have the big tap spanner ( the big socket one) this can only be used if pipes are cut then re coupled. Or just use the doofer with 22mm jaw (back nut spanner) maybe doofer is scottish word for the tool im not sure...

I have an adjustable basin wrench, box spanners up to 22mm, mole grips, adjustables and pump pliers. I'm assuming the only usable tool in this scenario are the pump pliers as the backnut looks too big for the others?

 

[kris]

You do get a spanner that looks like a big socket that fits that nut but to use it the pipes would need disconnecting. Also the ply wood is slightly in your way but me personally id cut a little bit of ply out with my multitool and make up a lead washer and place it onto the underside of granite then tighten nut back up... sometimes the 22mm jaw can just take a grip of the nut corners...

 

[jaydebruyne]

You do get a spanner that looks like a big socket that fits that nut but to use it the pipes would need disconnecting. Also the ply wood is slightly in your way but me personally id cut a little bit of ply out with my multitool and make up a lead washer and place it onto the underside of granite then tighten nut back up... sometimes the 22mm jaw can just take a grip of the nut corners...

Yup. Will see if I can make something from my washer kit
Cheers Kris, much appreciated.

 

[kris]

No worrys jay good luck im sure youl manage... might have sore neck when finished......

 

[jaydebruyne]

No worrys jay good luck im sure youl manage... might have sore neck when finished......

I'm sure a sore neck is worth the word of mouth

 

[plumbtech]

i bet the other guy just walked away thinking about it

 

[SimonG]

You could just replace the tap with something that is wras approved and meets water regs.

Them hose taps are gash.

 

[SimonG]

Thats maybe why the last plumber wouldnt touch it?

 

[Plumbstar Tom]

http://www.bristan.com/WebRoot/BristanNewDB/Shops/Bristan/Products/CS DRAWING-1075369-1-D8-1.PDF

you want part 17

Multi tool to remove more of the timber then refit with that thick plastic back plate

 

[jaydebruyne]

http://www.bristan.com/WebRoot/BristanNewDB/Shops/Bristan/Products/CS DRAWING-1075369-1-D8-1.PDF

you want part 17

Multi tool to remove more of the timber then refit with that thick plastic back plate

Found the part (which is exactly the same as what you've mentioned).

http://pim-kitchensystems.franke.com/pim/images_lr/PDF/115.0155.644_installation.pdf

Many thanks, much appreciated

 

[jaydebruyne]

You could just replace the tap with something that is wras approved and meets water regs.

Them hose taps are gash.

Yeah I'm not a fan either. But they like it and want to keep it *shrug* who am I to argue!!

 

[josh]

You might get away with just undo the hose/hot and colds then twist the tap anti clockwise and see if it loosens the backing nut a little to undo with fingers.

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

one of these are good ,if you can get in

 

[jaydebruyne]

You might get away with just undo the hose/hot and colds then twist the tap anti clockwise and see if it loosens the backing nut a little to undo with fingers.

Yeah I thought of doing that to tighten it before I decided to do what Kris suggested and put the tap support on there first. Cheers

 

[jaydebruyne]

one of these are good ,if you can get in

I've a pair similar which I'm going to try with. My biggest problem I think will be gaining access to the backnut, apparently the entire plumbing for the tap is boxed in within the kitchen units... :/

 

[Neil K]

As Kris said, you need to disconnect the hot and cold first. And if you can find it , there's a box spanner that'll fit that nut, I've got 3 or 4 different ones. Believe it or not I actually think I bought one of them in B&Q

 

[jaydebruyne]

You could just replace the tap with something that is wras approved and meets water regs.

Them hose taps are gash.

Just found out from Franke that this tap is actually WRAS approved as it has a counter weight on the flexi cord connected to the tap to automatically retract the head into the housing when you let go.

Ho hum.

 

[chris watkins]

Just found out from Franke that this tap is actually WRAS approved as it has a counter weight on the flexi cord connected to the tap to automatically retract the head into the housing when you let go.

Ho hum.

Until it get's tangled up with the boxes of soap powder, bottles etc etc that are under any sink. you need to get yourself one of these think of it as an investment.

 

[plumbtech]

Until it get's tangled up with the boxes of soap powder, bottles etc etc that are under any sink. View attachment 19337you need to get yourself one of these think of it as an investment.

very good spanner

 

[jaydebruyne]

Until it get's tangled up with the boxes of soap powder, bottles etc etc that are under any sink. View attachment 19337you need to get yourself one of these think of it as an investment.

I already have an adj basin wrench, (Adjustable Basin Wrench | Adjustable Wrenches | NoLinkingToThis) but the backnut to the tap is 35mm and won't fit. Plus, I have a sever GAS problem (Gear Acquiring Syndrome) and have vowed to steer clear of screwfix for a while

How wide are the jaws on the monument? brrrrrrft lol

 

[chris watkins]

You get two jaws designed for 1/2" & 3/4" tap back nuts but in truth the 3/4" will get on your nut.


If not

there is an option extra large jaw.

 

[jaydebruyne]

Ok... So I just got back from having a look at this job.

The main reason for needing a plumber was that the tap body no longer swivelled. It was also loose. To recap, it's a kitchen single lever monobloc spray tap. Horrid beast it is!

I isolated the supply of the hot & cold no problems. Disconnected the flexi's and hose no problems. I even undid the nut (after some time) and was able to bring the tap up 4-5" from the worktop - the nut wouldn't go over the tap tails as the olives/nuts were still on there and until I knew what the issue was, I wasn't going to remove them.

So, for the life of me I couldn't undo the bottom seat that sits on top of the worktop, which the tap swivels on. So I decided to go in from the top and undid the grub screw to take off the lever and the lever just would not budge.

I advised the lady that I could by all means use some force to get the lever off but there may be a chance it wouldn't go back on. I also advised, as the tap is 9 years old, that it may well be corroded inside resulting in me not being able to disassemble it and to buy a new tap.

I put everything back together again, ensured there were no leaks and went on my merry way.

What do you think? Was that the best thing to do? Or would you have done differently?

 

[nysk2008]

im of the opinion that if youve your best thats all you can do - good on ya for the advise you passed onto the cust aswell. better to leave as is than cause further issues.

 

[jaydebruyne]

im of the opinion that if youve your best thats all you can do - good on ya for the advise you passed onto the cust aswell. better to leave as is than cause further issues.

Cheers Nysk2008.

I was a little bummed I couldn't fix it but came away feeling quite positive in that, you win some, you lose some I gave it a good shot and I'm pleased with my efforts.

 

[nysk2008]

youll get jobs that are easy ans some that are a real knightmare - price accordingly and allow yourself time, if you think 60 mins then double it, i think cust service is key as if your honest i bet they they will call u again.

Cheers Nysk2008.

I was a little bummed I couldn't fix it but came away feeling quite positive in that, you win some, you lose some I gave it a good shot and I'm pleased with my efforts.

 

[jaydebruyne]

youll get jobs that are easy ans some that are a real knightmare - price accordingly and allow yourself time, if you think 60 mins then double it, i think cust service is key as if your honest i bet they they will call u again.

This brings me to a question as I didn't charge her for anything. To me it was just good to get some real life experience.

But generally if I can't fix something, like todays example, do I still charge? I mean, as I didn't do anything other than try.

 

[rpm]

This brings me to a question as I didn't charge her for anything. To me it was just good to get some real life experience.

But generally if I can't fix something, like todays example, do I still charge? I mean, as I didn't do anything other than try.

Try to get something, even if you just ask for the fuel money most people will appreciate your efforts and honestly and give you something but being a friend of the family can make it difficult to ask.

 

[jaydebruyne]

Try to get something, even if you just ask for the fuel money most people will appreciate your efforts and honestly and give you something but being a friend of the family can make it difficult to ask.

Yeah I hear you. Thanks for the advice, I think I'll do this from now on. Obviously I'll charge for any parts I use (+ my 10%)

 

[nysk2008]

as above, gaining exp is what we all do, however we all need to make a living and some times working for family and friends isnt always the way forward

 

[rpm]

Would also increase that % mate but thats not for a public forum conversation.

 

[jaydebruyne]

as above, gaining exp is what we all do, however we all need to make a living and some times working for family and friends isnt always the way forward

Perhaps not & I totally understand what you mean, but I'll take what I can get right now. If I get paid, great. If not (family/friends only) then as long as my diesel is paid I'll put it on my experience belt and walk away with a smile.

However, this will depend on the job, how much time it takes, parts needed etc. I'll have to just weigh up each job individually.