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rob1982

We are looking to zone our central heating system into 2 zones. 1 for the central heating and one to heat the hot water tank via indirect coil.

Do we need a auto bypass valve installed (all radiators have TRVs installed) when we move to having 2 motorised valves installed?

We have a Worcester Bosch 24i Junior Combi boiler.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
yes you will need an auto bypass

becareful of wiring, this boiler doesnt support 240v switching
 
which worcester combi is it, is it the GREENSTAR junior or the Junior
 
ok, forget my earlier post

to make your boiler safer to use, it would be best to re route some wires

on the diagram you have provided, the GREY wires going to block 1, should be connected to LS connection on boiler

the ORANGE wires going to connection block 10 should then been re routed to LR on boiler

you can ommit the pump from the diagram also

hope that helps
 
Hi, so just to confirm, ok for 230v switching and I do need a bypass valve installed.

So I understand, the LS from the boiler to valves supplies the permanent live connection from the boiler to the valves? and the LR is the switched live from the valves to the boiler i.e. sends the call for heat signal from the valve to the boiler. Is that right?

Do I need to do anything with NS?

Can you explain why it makes it safer so that I fully understand.

Many thanks again.
Rob

Rob
 
1, yes
2, forget ns
3, so that when you turn boiler off at switch on wall or unplug, all of the connections inside are dead,
if you was to wire this with a different supply, you could have a live connection inside boiler. prob not a problem for you BUT what about when someone else is working on it!

just good practice
 
Hi, so just to confirm, ok for 230v switching and I do need a bypass valve installed.

So I understand, the LS from the boiler to valves supplies the permanent live connection from the boiler to the valves? and the LR is the switched live from the valves to the boiler i.e. sends the call for heat signal from the valve to the boiler. Is that right?

Do I need to do anything with NS?

Can you explain why it makes it safer so that I fully understand.

Many thanks again.
Rob

Rob
electrics on a gas appliance are you competant
 
Ok, we will wire as you have detailed above.

The one thing I don't get understand on the original diagram is, if the supply is turned off (via say switched spur) does this not turn the whole wiring off.

Or, do you mean on the diagram, the boiler would end up having its own supply on the L,N, E. The supply to the programmer and the wiring centre and then the GREY would go to LS and ORANGE to LR coming from another supply. This would then result in the situation where programmer etc could be turned off but the boiler still live via its own supply. Is this right?

Cheers,
Rob
 
I don't know the inns and outs of your house or how your going to do it.

It is better and should be fed by the same supply. Im just trying to make it bette for you.
 
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