WB heat cells cleaning tools...

[mutley racers]

Do you guys actually use these? Or just use the brushes you have on van. I see the junior has a baffle removal tool, can you get these out without it? It says in the manual that the baffles do get stuck and so you will need this tool. Not cheap at £27 though

 

[Roger Welton]

Baffles will come out normally, though its not fun if the boiler is hot!

I tend to use a stiff bristled flue brush and loads of water to rinse through.

 

[mutley racers]

cheers for the advice. This boiler is 5 yrs old and if the fan pressure is within range, would you still service the cell

 

[gasmanrob]

They are a horrid job even if they are a little warm as the inner cell is still really toasty. I've always managed to reach them by hand.

if fan pressure is in range then I probably wouldn't worry too much about it if you do make sure you've got the gaskets to put it all back

 

[Roger Welton]

I would, dont forget the joint, and i'd probably take some electrodes for a ride also.

 

[mutley racers]

They are a horrid job even if they are a little warm as the inner cell is still really toasty. I've always managed to reach them by hand.

if fan pressure is in range then I probably wouldn't worry too much about it if you do make sure you've got the gaskets to put it all back

When you say Gaskets, do you mean Gasket? Just the one that goes from fan to cell?

 

[mutley racers]

I would, dont forget the joint, and i'd probably take some electrodes for a ride also.

Joint?

Electrodes as well. So I just change them any way. An expensive service isn't it

 

[Roger Welton]

joint = gasket here

Electrodes only if needed, carry them on the van, as the detection electrode seems to get burnt away fairly rapidly (same with cdi)

 

[Dotty]

They're pretty much the same electrode and gasket set aren't they?

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

They're pretty much the same electrode and gasket set aren't they?

on the round hex(commonly called the kebab)yes,same gaskets and electrodes,on the square wb5 hex though different electrodes and a bit easier to service,gasket not normally needed

 

[Ermintrude]

Be carful u don't loose end of your finger

If it's not a kebab

 

[mutley racers]

on the round hex(commonly called the kebab)yes,same gaskets and electrodes,on the square wb5 hex though different electrodes and a bit easier to service,gasket not normally needed

So the Greenstar CDI you don't need to change the gasket on the front every time you remove it? Only when needed. It does say in the MI'S that you need to hey

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

So the Greenstar CDI you don't need to change the gasket on the front every time you remove it? Only when needed. It does say in the MI'S that you need to hey

no,most i work on are ok,worcester tech confirmed when i asked only renew if needed,obviously good idea to have one on the van though

 

[mutley racers]

Be carful u don't loose end of your finger

If it's not a kebab

So that's not the proper tool is it Guy? on the CDI course they had a tough grater looking thing.

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

So that's not the proper tool is it Guy? on the CDI course they had a tough grater looking thing.

that type works fine on the wb5 Regin REGT77 Extra Thin Heat Exchanger Cleaning Blade 400mm | eBay

for the kebabs i use this Worcester Heat Exchanger Cleaning Kit 87161076590 *NEW GENUINE STOCKIST* | eBay

 

[southcoastboile]

On the heat exchanger shown in the picture above there is normally a thin metal plate in there. I have had 3 lately that have the plate missing. Anyone else had this? I am now wondering if there's not supposed to be a plate in some of them or if it's a manufacturing fault as one of the ones with no plate was only 2 years old and hadn't had a service.

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

On the heat exchanger shown in the picture above there is normally a thin metal plate in there. I have had 3 lately that have the plate missing. Anyone else had this? I am now wondering if there's not supposed to be a plate in some of them or if it's a manufacturing fault as one of the ones with no plate was only 2 years old and hadn't had a service.

not plates in all of them IIRC lower kw boilers dont have them

 

[Kevin D]

The thing to keep in mind about the seals is a (kebab) WB3 seal is mainly a premix air/gas seal, not sealing combustion other than around the electrodes. Pre mix air/gas leaks don't need much thinking about other than don't let them happen. The seal on the CDi clasic is a combustion seal so I think you can apply a bit of on site common here.
The seal on the clasic that needs carefull attention is the electrode seals, like the kebab seal never re use it. On kebab heat exchangers I now replace electrodes and therefore seals as a matter of routine every five years due to the increased erosion of the ionisation electrode. This has got worse over the last few years, right or wrong I put this down to the increase in sulphur in mains gas.
This obviously has an impact on cost but if you are servicing as per MIs you have four years of tring to look honest, hard working and professional before you ever get a spanner out the bag.

If you have a concern about a kebab seal for instance you have a new customer, with an older boiler use your FGA to check for hot spots around the clamp plate and electrodes.

 

[Roger Welton]

Also worth remembering the burner seal on the CDi classic Hex gets in a poor way and always need replacing when the burner is removed (nearly every one i've seen has cracked through on the corner's

 

[mutley racers]

The thing to keep in mind about the seals is a (kebab) WB3 seal is mainly a premix air/gas seal, not sealing combustion other than around the electrodes. Pre mix air/gas leaks don't need much thinking about other than don't let them happen. The seal on the CDi clasic is a combustion seal so I think you can apply a bit of on site common here.
The seal on the clasic that needs carefull attention is the electrode seals, like the kebab seal never re use it. On kebab heat exchangers I now replace electrodes and therefore seals as a matter of routine every five years due to the increased erosion of the ionisation electrode. This has got worse over the last few years, right or wrong I put this down to the increase in sulphur in mains gas.
This obviously has an impact on cost but if you are servicing as per MIs you have four years of tring to look honest, hard working and professional before you ever get a spanner out the bag.

If you have a concern about a kebab seal for instance you have a new customer, with an older boiler use your FGA to check for hot spots around the clamp plate and electrodes.

When you say check for hot spots do you mean heat or co?

 

[mutley racers]

So I got a call out to a worcester with the kebab today. The PHEX was blocked but it had caused ribbing on the main cell. Called up worcester and they said it is normal if it over heats but it is not a problem if the blockage has gone. Is this right? Normal wear and tear?

 

[kb76]

I picked the cleaning kit this week, used to do the same pour lots of water through and cleaning with flue brush generally when fan pressure is higher than MI's state. I see loads of these where the pink lava has erupted through between fan and cell but fan pressure still within range, does anybody know what causes this? I also had one on Monday where i couldn't get the CO above 8% on the sit valve. Took the fan out, cleaned and put back then wouldn't relight. Took back out and found the rubber gas pipe had split at the joint on the back of the fan, anyone had this? I service this model of boiler more than any other and I'd say almost 30% need new expansion vessels too!

 

[mutley racers]

Green lava? Is this a blockage that has forced it's way out from the water ways section of the heat cell? Does this mean it needs a new heat cell? I heard some where a good way to give a clean is attach hose outlet into the flue sampling point and run water through it this way

 

[kb76]

Not always, if the cell has gone I assume the system would be loosing pressure (vessel ok) and depending which way it goes within the cell it would pass though the sump and consense. I guess it could be condensate blowing around in there and the gasket has come to the end of it life maybe?
Mutely I used to live and had a business in surbiton till around 5 years ago...how are things up there these days?

 

[gassafe]

I picked the cleaning kit this week, used to do the same pour lots of water through and cleaning with flue brush generally when fan pressure is higher than MI's state!

The fan pressure is a negative reading in the book.... It has to be greater than the minimum fan pressure, only when it drops below that reading does it indicate the heat cell has deposits on it & requires cleaning. In theory anyway

 

[kb76]

Yes negative reading, usually get around -5/-6. There's a chart in the MI's which I generally use, if it's out I'll clean the cell. Sliding that fan back onto the clamp can be a pain!

 

[mutley racers]

Not always, if the cell has gone I assume the system would be loosing pressure (vessel ok) and depending which way it goes within the cell it would pass though the sump and consense. I guess it could be condensate blowing around in there and the gasket has come to the end of it life maybe?
Mutely I used to live and had a business in surbiton till around 5 years ago...how are things up there these days?

So we do not know what the gunk is that gets pushed out of the gasket or why?

Life in Hampton Court is great. Business getting busier and busier and it's chilled here. Just started doing the bushy park run which is great fun on Saturday Mornings