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The pressure reducing valve is fitted as in came into the room, saved me running another 22 fo balanced cold. I will start making note of the AAV vern.... I PROMISE ;) as for the draincock I fit the one supplied, may not be able to see it in the pic.

Only nit picking pal, its top drawer:biggrin:
 
The pressure reducing valve is fitted as in came into the room, saved me running another 22 fo balanced cold. I will start making note of the AAV vern.... I PROMISE ;) as for the draincock I fit the one supplied, may not be able to see it in the pic.
did you fit nrv by the combi valve is required if it aint next to cylinder .....not having a bad vibe from me Tony just asking mate
 
why would you suggest AAV on the flow of the coil ? I use manual air vents on flow and return to UHWC coil
 
why would you suggest AAV on the flow of the coil ? I use manual air vents on flow and return to UHWC coil
Always do Stan on big systems, as megaflos are coil in coil, when they airlock they lock even on sealed systems, then turn off cap when vented and commissioned
 
They better be Tom , for what they cost you can get : washing mashine+ dishwasher + small fridge for your beer

I'm acquainted with the service guy for Miele north so I got a washer/dryer for ÂŁ450. BARGAIN.

I don't think all of them are pump less vern, can usually tell by connections on back, many have 2-3" gravity wastes, these ones usually have a sluice program to get rid of blood/**** etc.
 
make sense vern , I have never worked on a huge houses of systems more then about 20 radiators and 1 cylinder .
 
I'm acquainted with the service guy for Miele north so I got a washer/dryer for ÂŁ450. BARGAIN.

I don't think all of them are pump less vern, can usually tell by connections on back, many have 2-3" gravity wastes, these ones usually have a sluice program to get rid of blood/**** etc.

Yep on 2" wastes pal, will have to remember you know the rep lol
 
make sense vern , I have never worked on a huge houses of systems more then about 20 radiators and 1 cylinder .

TBH Stan that was only a 30 rad system...but the bigger ones with more rads and multi zones and pumps are a pain without AAV's, as you are filling and purging, other zones drag in more air, so i just let the AAV's do the job then shut them off, i always ensure they are on the positive side of the pump too, they can drag air in if not!
 
Would love to do something like that I only do, small stuff never needed to use 1, although a m8 of mine says he used to make them himself? Don't no how easy that would be. I will post a picture of a little conversion am doing tomorrow little bit of a pipe run to do so wil take a few pics
 
Would love to do something like that I only do, small stuff never needed to use 1, although a m8 of mine says he used to make them himself? Don't no how easy that would be. I will post a picture of a little conversion am doing tomorrow little bit of a pipe run to do so wil take a few pics

You can really nothing too them really, loads of design tips on net......yep get the pics up
 
Nice tidy job. Isn't it great when you have the space to work in so you can plan it properly. re the airvent i think you'll be fine just having one on the boiler. Given the position relative to the boiler different if the cylinder was above the boiler though.
 
I agree tackle but.... Mi's do state you have one on the cylinder so.. I must start... Probably on the next one..... Or the one after that. :)
 
I like your work mate, and you have passion (ohh err) for it which is always good and rightly should be proud of your work. We can all pick on somebodys work if we look hard enough. If I was doing your install on a price I would use a few more solder fittings as time is money, but day work that should be the standard for a good time served plumber (which obviously you are) working at a reasonable pace, so nice one :yes:
 
Vern, out of interest why have you lagged the D2 pipe on your nursing home install?
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1362424199.377807.jpg
Ruined I tell ya... RUINED
 
A question more than a comment;

Is the pressure vessel upside down?

Reason I ask is all solar diagrams say the Schrader facing down, old school says facing up and the big vessels on legs it's up.

Who is right?
 
A question more than a comment;

Is the pressure vessel upside down?

Reason I ask is all solar diagrams say the Schrader facing down, old school says facing up and the big vessels on legs it's up.

Who is right?

Doesn't really matter IMO but most MI's I've seen state valve at bottom.
 
It was ruined the minute a potterton went on the wall ;)
I loves my pottertons mate, suprima has to be my least favourite mind. The boiler was reused hence the vessel, external pump etc. so didn't have much choice.
 
Vern, out of interest why have you lagged the D2 pipe on your nursing home install?

Welcome Virgil......more pipe protection than anything, it's a working laundry room and small at that, lots of laundry baskets in an out
 
A question more than a comment;

Is the pressure vessel upside down?

Reason I ask is all solar diagrams say the Schrader facing down, old school says facing up and the big vessels on legs it's up.

Who is right?
Kind of confusing having the vessel instructions telling you schrader up and the fitting instructions for the kit telling you schrader down.

Depends on your likes, Schrader down leads to a much higher failure rate in my experience.
 
Question to whn1: why 22mm HW pipe? 15mm gets the hot water much quicker to the taps. And loosing a few hundred millibar at 3bar standing pressure will not kill you.

But otherwise its just looking bonny.
 
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22mm feeds straight to the bath taps to give optimum flow rate.
 
Best thing about UV is the can size pipes properly. 22 for bath, 15 for showers and 10 for basins. Can save a lot in wasted heat and water.
 
22mm feeds straight to the bath taps to give optimum flow rate.
At 37l/min HW you are still below 2m/s. That gives you around 56l/min mixed water. At an appliance that is designed not to give off more than 36l/min HW at 1bar. So you can loose 2+ bar in your pipes. Which gives you an equivalent pipe length of over 100m. If you would use that pipe length then a quarter of you 120l cylinder gets used just to fill the pipes.
From a 15mm pipe you still get 20l/min at an equivalent of 40m.
(Hot water, not mixed water)
 
At 37l/min HW you are still below 2m/s. That gives you around 56l/min mixed water. At an appliance that is designed not to give off more than 36l/min HW at 1bar. So you can loose 2+ bar in your pipes. Which gives you an equivalent pipe length of over 100m. If you would use that pipe length then a quarter of you 120l cylinder gets used just to fill the pipes.
From a 15mm pipe you still get 20l/min at an equivalent of 40m.
(Hot water, not mixed water)
Interesting point
 
If you avoid stopcocks in the HW pipe you could even go to 5m/s which provides you with 40l/min. draw offs apparently share what is there. At 20l/min you can have 3 showers going at the same time or 1 shower and one filling the bath at the same speed as with an 35kW combi on its own. You just need to watch your hydraulics a bit for not preferring the bath to much as it could rob the other appliances.
 
If you avoid stopcocks in the HW pipe you could even go to 5m/s which provides you with 40l/min. draw offs apparently share what is there. At 20l/min you can have 3 showers going at the same time or 1 shower and one filling the bath at the same speed as with an 35kW combi on its own. You just need to watch your hydraulics a bit for not preferring the bath to much as it could rob the other appliances.
what do you mean "watch your hydraulics" , like your posts
 
With hydraulics I meant the way the pipe runs. Like having a long run to the bath and the shower mixer (hot) close to the bath of the branch could lead to an unpleasant pressure drop if someone starts filling the bath whilst an other one uses the shower.

Or the less likely event that your mains only supplies a low pressure and/ or low flow rate.
 
Dirk, please bear with me whilst my brain processes your comments....
 
If the pipe has not been sized correctly the volume of water traveling to one outlet may be adversely affected if another outlet, on the same run, is opened at the same time.
 
So shall we go back to the 22mm supply from cylinder to bathroom and then take 15mm to shower
 
I'm still sure the way I've always done it is correct, so in this case 22 mm straight to the bath first teeing of for sink then basin and shower in the bathroom then reduced after the bath to feed the shower and basin in the on suite in the next room.
 
Should have added as well, without carefully deburring the pipe you would not get a very happy customer if you design the pipework for 5m/s flow speed.


@whn1: not a problem.


@SafeGasInstall: Not necessarily. But it could indeed be of advance to have individual supplies for every bath room. May well save you the effort of a secondary return. Just depending on the situation.

Quite unlikely someone would use the shower at the same time as another one runs the bath in the same bathroom if there is more than one bathroom for example. Unless it is a huge family squeezed in a tiny bungalow.

You do not need to size pipes for the one in a million case that all appliances in the household are getting used simultaneously.
 
I'm still sure the way I've always done it is correct, so in this case 22 mm straight to the bath first teeing of for sink then basin and shower in the bathroom then reduced after the bath to feed the shower and basin in the on suite in the next room.

Not saying that you are wrong. Just saying it is worth to consider if you can safe the material and the customers time and energy just by such a simple trick as downsizing the pipe.
 
Not saying that you are wrong. Just saying it is worth to consider if you can safe the material and the customers time and energy just by such a simple trick as downsizing the pipe.
Now I am more confused ...... I better go back watching tv
 
Now I am more confused ...... I better go back watching tv
Hahah, it's been a long day, I'm trying to watch football and now because of dirk I've I've got flow rates and litres per minute running through my head. Thanks dirk ;)
 
Majority of basin taps size is 1/2inch
And bath taps 3/4inch
So 22 pipe should always imho be going to a bath yes 15mm will have pressure but not flow on a correct installation
 
Gray's back in da house!

Speaking of which, how's it going?

Was in Omagh DVTA t'other week, head and choulders in their biomass.
 
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