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Discuss Motorised valve on hot water in the UK Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

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So, I went to this job yesterday to change over a faulty motorised valve on the hot water side of an unvented system. I drained the system, wired the new one up and fitted the new valve, this system is fed from a communal boiler in the building which might be part of the reason for the issue I am about to describe but any help would be appreciated.

I found that when I fitted the motorised valve, even when I was not demanding hot water and the valve was shut off, I was still getting what sounded like water passing through it so then I thought to myself "well maybe I have fitted this incorrectly" there was no arrow on the valve to indicate which side should go with the flow only an A & B I assumed that the "A" should go at the side of the incoming water. Since this was concerning me and I thought that maybe if the valve was incorrectly fitted then the paddle would not be able to close properly and thus allowing water to pass through when closed, I removed it and fitted it the other way, this time the valve shut sufficiently BUT it made a horrendous noise because it is not working in conjunction with the pump since it is a communal system.

Now, I have worked in this building in different flats and have found that on most occasions the way that they have been wired and the way that some valves etc have been installed have been dreadful, it looks like someone has messed around until they have gotten it working and then run out the door. I put the valve back on the initial way so as to stop the horrendous noise because I know that this would become a cause for concern with the tenant, at the moment they are going to get hot water when using their heating which is what they are after but I am aware that I need to come up with something else because the constant flow of water through this is going to potentially cause the cylinder to overheat and open the PRV. My only thought on this would be that instead of fitting on this end of the coil where the original one was fitted, take the valve and put it on the outlet of the coil, this would then potentially give it a better chance at shutting easier but I am still in two minds as to whether or not this would placate as it is still going to come to an abrupt stop.

What I find interesting though is that the heating motorised valve seems to open and close without any problems but then there may be a bypass in place before this which could be alleviating this issue. I suppose I could maybe link a bypass in before the motorised valve so as to try and ease the shutting of the valve. I am not sure if anyone could offer a thought on this, but if so, that would be great. Just looking to get some ideas but I reckon the communal system aspect must be a major factor here,

Thanks in advance!
 

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Heating system has a higher resistance causing more back pressure than the hw coil my guess due to the commercial pumps if you have the heating on does the hw bypass eg forces through ?
 
What was the reason behind the change? Was it doing the same?
I was only told that it wasn't working and when I arrived I found it to be unresponsive with the programmer but it might tie in with the fact that it was under so much resistance when it was shutting as I don't think it takes much to burn out the little motors. This is a new tenant so I don't know how long this has been an issue for but I can tell you that the fuse spur housing for the immerser had pretty much exploded which I reckon is down to it having overheated and that it was fitted with an undersized fuse 🤦‍♂️
 
Heating system has a higher resistance causing more back pressure than the hw coil my guess due to the commercial pumps if you have the heating on does the hw bypass eg forces through ?
Sorry for the late reply, i only just seen your comment. What do you mean sorry when you ask "does the hw bypass eg forces through"?

I reckon you are right, i would say its the pumps that are the issue, because it is not directly linked into the pumps it means that it cant go through its systematic shut down
 
Does it still happen with the heating on ?
 

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