Search the forum,

Discuss How to Install Grip It Plasterboard Fixings! - Installation Notes in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
G

gripitfixings1

Grip It Fixings are a new range of plasterboard fixings on the market, designed to be able to be used on the "dot and dab" plasterboard as well as normal hollow cavity walls. Due to its slim griping wings it is able to open easily with the dab void to produce an effective secure fixing with excellent load bearing capability of up to 180kgs per fixing! excelling any cavity wall fixing currently available! - please see our website for more information!


We have had a few plumbers come back to us with a few issues on how are fixings work and how to install with ease so we thought we would put down a few installation notes:

1) When drilling the holes in the plasterboard:

- Too drill the holes for our fixings we either recommend that you use a "flat drill bit" or a "hole saw" (please use the correct size for the fixing being used) - The use of a twist drill is not recommended due to the tearing effect this produces at the back of the plasterboard, where our fixings arms need to open

2) When inserting the grip it fixings in to the plasterboard:

- Gently tap the fixing in to the plasterboard (we recommend that you insert a screw in the fixing and turn three or four times before tapping the fixing in to ensure that you will not loose the fixing behind the cavity) - Do not apply to much pressure when tapping the fixing in to the plasterboard with a hammer

- To ensure that you have tapped the fixing in at the right depth for the arms to open out, we advise that you use the depth gauge provided (on the depth gauge the 3mm protrusion is for non-plastered walls and the 6m protrusion is for plastered walls)

We recommend before inserting the Grip It Fixing you check for any obstructions that may prevent the locking arms from opening.

---

Like any new product, new installation methods are necessary and once mastered becomes second nature!

If anyone would like to sample our product or for more information please let us know.

Thanks,

Grip It Fixings
 
gripitfixings are not a forum sponsor but very kindly donated packs of there fittings to forum members for them to test out in the real world and give feed back.

there is no need to report this message as spam
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've used them on a couple of jobs now. It's a bit worrying drilling such a large hole but they held okay.
 
\i think i have seen some locally, they dont fill me full of confidence if truth be told
 
I was offered a sample but knocked them back. Too much faffing around for me.
 
It's a shame no one has made a specific wall plug for dot and dab walls. Say with a brown plug end with a solid bit that would go between the depth of the plasterboard and adhesive to stop the board been compressed.
maybe there is something out there or have I invented something ?
 
Grip It Fixings are a new range of plasterboard fixings on the market, designed to be able to be used on the "dot and dab" plasterboard as well as normal hollow cavity walls. Due to its slim griping wings it is able to open easily with the dab void to produce an effective secure fixing with excellent load bearing capability of up to 180kgs per fixing! excelling any cavity wall fixing currently available! - please see our website for more information!


We have had a few plumbers come back to us with a few issues on how are fixings work and how to install with ease so we thought we would put down a few installation notes:

1) When drilling the holes in the plasterboard:

- Too drill the holes for our fixings we either recommend that you use a "flat drill bit" or a "hole saw" (please use the correct size for the fixing being used) - The use of a twist drill is not recommended due to the tearing effect this produces at the back of the plasterboard, where our fixings arms need to open

2) When inserting the grip it fixings in to the plasterboard:

- Gently tap the fixing in to the plasterboard (we recommend that you insert a screw in the fixing and turn three or four times before tapping the fixing in to ensure that you will not loose the fixing behind the cavity) - Do not apply to much pressure when tapping the fixing in to the plasterboard with a hammer

- To ensure that you have tapped the fixing in at the right depth for the arms to open out, we advise that you use the depth gauge provided (on the depth gauge the 3mm protrusion is for non-plastered walls and the 6m protrusion is for plastered walls)

We recommend before inserting the Grip It Fixing you check for any obstructions that may prevent the locking arms from opening.

---

Like any new product, new installation methods are necessary and once mastered becomes second nature!

If anyone would like to sample our product or for more information please let us know.

Thanks,

Grip It Fixings

Hi Gripitfixings, I do have some free samples and did a small review on here although I was very rushed at the time and maybe didn't give them a proper test. Under what test conditions did you do the 180kg test? Thats over twice my body weight hanging on two little metal wings behind the plasterboard.

I will try them again this week if I get chance, although on site its sometimes easier for me the just cut two stubs of 15mm and insert those in a dot & dab wall against the breeze block and use 3.5" screws. the rad bracket is then fixed solidly to the wall and would be even if all the plasterboard was ripped off around it.

I will give them another go though.
 
It's a shame no one has made a specific wall plug for dot and dab walls.
Spit had one about 20 odd years ago. They might still make them. I have a few kicking about somewhere in the garage as i saw them in the summer when i emptied the place to paint the floor. If i remember where i put them i'll post a pic up.
 
It's a shame no one has made a specific wall plug for dot and dab walls. Say with a brown plug end with a solid bit that would go between the depth of the plasterboard and adhesive to stop the board been compressed.
maybe there is something out there or have I invented something ?

It's been made. Can't remember the name but they are out there. I'll post next time I spot them. No offence to the op but I would much rather fix to the solid blocks behind the plasterboard.
 
It's been made. Can't remember the name but they are out there. I'll post next time I spot them. No offence to the op but I would much rather fix to the solid blocks behind the plasterboard.

Can you find them?
 
I bought some of these for a job requiring a big radiator on plasterboard!

I did some tests on a sheet of plasterboard secured to a timber frame in the garden! Nothing scientific etc... I compared grip it fixings to my regular Fischer expander that is used with the expander gun type ones!

If I'm honest, the grip it fixings seemed to offer less load bearing than a regular Fischer fixing which only claims about 20-30 kg... 180kg on this grip it i would consider nonsense, they then say safe load of 90 kg or similar...

As per the installation, there fiddily & the little wings on the grip it fixing dont bite into the board like a Fischer fixing... They just sit in the plasterboard... Also alot more expensive...
 
amazing how many blokes knock a hole through plaster board for toggles and other cavity fixing not realising the back of the hole will be a crater and leave little strength in the board
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to How to Install Grip It Plasterboard Fixings! - Installation Notes in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

I'm currently refurbishing a room and in the process adding some internal wall insulation. The wall has been stripped and my plumber is coming this week to install/reconfigure the pipework for new radiators. The walls are solid brick and as I am installing insulated plasterboards, we agreed...
Replies
12
Views
3K
Hello all, Our bathroom fitters have finished the first fix. However, when the tiler came round, he pointed out these issues: Standard plasterboard has been used throughout (including the future shower area), rather than using the waterproof variety of plasterboard or to use tiling board. The...
Replies
12
Views
2K
Hey, forum friends! 👋 Excited to introduce Master Drain Ltd, your go-to expert for top-notch drain installation and repair services. Here's what sets us apart: 🔧 Seamless Installation: When it comes to drain installation, precision is key. Our skilled team at Master Drain Ltd ensures that your...
Replies
0
Views
363
We recently replaced a shower cubicle in our upstairs bathroom with a jacuzzi bath and shower cubicle and took the bath water feed from the existing shower. We were in the middle of a rennovation so the bathroom hadnt been used for 6 months or so in between. We replaced the tiles with the shower...
Replies
4
Views
805
D
I have been given a quote to fix a noisy tap. Apparently they have to “replace breech to main shower” — which I understand to mean the thing one level behind any normal work on a tap. (“It is worn down and still has a small crack in it.”) “This will have to be done through the Gyprock wall...
Replies
1
Views
448
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock