Hob/ cooker working pressures!?!?!

[jim3tc]

I need a tool that will connect to a hob or oven injector/jet (as advised by maufacturer) so that I can test the appliance working pressure. The appliance does not have a test point and it is not suitable to fit test points close to the appliance. I have spoken to two manufacturers and both advised me to test the appliances this way however I have been unable to find any way of attaching the manometer to the jets. If there is connector that exists could someone please tell me where I can get one and what they are called so I know what to ask for! If they are not available has anyone got any suggestions of how I can get around the problem.

Cheers

 

[AWheating]

gas rate the appliance and flame picture checks, why do you need to test the working pressure?

 

[johnnyplumb]

keep hold of an injector [ jet ] from an old cooker that you have taken out, round off the hex and solder it into the brass sleeve from an old universal thermocouple, temporarily replace one of the jets with this device, attach your manometer hose, now you can do working pressures handsfree and guaranteed no leaks.

 

[jim3tc]

It is a cooker in a static caravan and I have no meter to rate the appliance which is why I need the working pressure. Flame picture was all good but Gas Safe inspector wants the working pressures taken. Cheers for the suggestion Johnnyplumb, I was hoping to get a shop bought tool but still cant find one so I may have to try your sugggestion.

 

[johnnyplumb]

gas rate the appliance and flame picture checks, why do you need to test the working pressure?

i can think of 3 reasons AW, 4 if you count the above post, the gas safe inspector asked me to do it.

i might need to record the w/p on my sheet, so might as well measure it correctly.

i've got 20mb w/p at the meter and need to check if i got 19mb min at the appliance.

data plate missing from hob and i've no manufacturers instructions, so no point in gas rating as i've nothing to check it against.

 

[AWheating]

i can think of 3 reasons AW, 4 if you count the above post, the gas safe inspector asked me to do it.

i might need to record the w/p on my sheet, so might as well measure it correctly.

i've got 20mb w/p at the meter and need to check if i got 19mb min at the appliance.

data plate missing from hob and i've no manufacturers instructions, so no point in gas rating as i've nothing to check it against.

the gas safe inspector has nothing to do with it really, you need to either check the gas rate or operating pressure or both according to the regs, no engineer should need a gas safe inspector to tell them to do this. Reg 26/9

you wont get an inlet pressure at the burner but a working pressure?.

if the data plate is missing and MI not available then the appliance should be disconnected as you can not confirm its suitability for use. How would you know what your operating pressure, KW, Gas type will be with no data badge? so you could neither gas rate or check pressures.

good idea about the tool.

 

[CES]

Why do you not fit the manometer hose over the burner jet?
This is the way I've always done it when fitting hobs. For all the time it takes instead of faffing about removing jets.

 

[neily01]

like CES says lift the burner if the injector is visable push and hold the u guage hose over the injector and open the gas valve, can be a bit akward to get a descent seal with out crushing hose but works.

 

[johnnyplumb]

the gas safe inspector has nothing to do with it really, you need to either check the gas rate or operating pressure or both according to the regs, no engineer should need a gas safe inspector to tell them to do this. Reg 26/9

you wont get an inlet pressure at the burner but a working pressure?.

if the data plate is missing and MI not available then the appliance should be disconnected as you can not confirm its suitability for use. How would you know what your operating pressure, KW, Gas type will be with no data badge? so you could neither gas rate or check pressures.

good idea about the tool.

that's fair enough about the inlet pressure, what i meant was a w/p will give you an indication of the inlet pressure & the 1mb drop allowed.

i cant agree with dis-connecting the appliance because of no data plate though, seems a bit extreme to me if there's no other problems.
AR at most, to cover your @rse, each to there own though.

 

[AWheating]

according to the regs after work on an appliance you must test its flue, air, operating pressure or heat input and its operating safely. In my opinion you cant do this without the correct information from either the data badge or manufacture. You have to cover yourself.

 

[Hobo128]

Disconnect the cooker, and fit a test valve to the bayonet. They cost about 10pound and removing a cooker isnt hard. This way YOU and other engineers can get the correct reading easly.
Then bill the customer 300pound for your hard work.
Thats what i would do.

 

[buckley plumb]

most of the time u gauge pipe fits onto burner injector - i just seem to forget to isolate electrics and end up getting shock off the piezo when i press the knob to get gas to burner.

 

[lame plumber]

most of the time u gauge pipe fits onto burner injector - i just seem to forget to isolate electrics and end up getting shock off the piezo when i press the knob to get gas to burner.

light a rear burner first then put your hose on a front burner and turn on the gas, dont get a shock then (until you lean on the ignitor button) as i always do!!!!!! or forget about auto ignitors!

 

[Barry98]

Revival thread

 

[buckley plumb]

light a rear burner first then put your hose on a front burner and turn on the gas, dont get a shock then (until you lean on the ignitor button) as i always do!!!!!! or forget about auto ignitors!

you do if the piezo is built into each knob I know lol