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smtplumbing

I have removed an back boiler and replaced with a combi customer has bought a fire marble etc. Now the builders opening is much bigger then the new fire do you gets get the bricky in or do you fit the sheet mable right to the wall without making the builders opening shorter
 
Depends on the type fire. Builders opening must be made good where old pipes went through the chimney breast. All tightly sealed. Marble tightly sealed to front of opening. Only two holes allowed, the one at the front and the one up the chimney.
 
As long as its sealed then the maximum size does not matter, its the minimum size which does matter.
 
As Reg Man mentioned, make sure the marble fireplace is cemented onto front of builders opening and catchment completely sealed. Then fit your fire.
 
Stick marble to wall and put some breeze blocks up the back of them marble, stops the stress on the marble when you cable tie the fire back
 
best to brick up to size of marble if suitable, stops heat stresses/chance of damage on the marble, sometimes a catchment area being to big can cause flue performance issues.

the bbu was prob on a slab, so will need some building work anyway, so just do it propa like.
 
Stick marble to wall and put some breeze blocks up the back of them marble, stops the stress on the marble when you cable tie the fire back
Breeze blocks are not approved material for chimney openings, unless you render them with a minimum 25mm deep, of strong cement mix.
 
best to brick up to size of marble if suitable, stops heat stresses/chance of damage on the marble, sometimes a catchment area being to big can cause flue performance issues.

the bbu was prob on a slab, so will need some building work anyway, so just do it propa like.
as aw said brick work up to the marble to stop stress cracking from heat ,how we do it purpose brick chamber in a u shape all round,at the sides of the chamber at the top cement forming a slope so debris falls behind the appliance ,sometimes a lintel is required to seal to the top of the marble
 
Tapered gather into the flue from the builders opening. minimum 12 litres of space for the catchment area.
 
I normally do get my builder in the Fire Shop Company said na dont need to builder to do any work, cowboys, customer wants a new liner put down rather be safe then sorry i just want it done correctly, So would you guy fit a flue box or plate at the bottom of the liner
 
Flue box and liner is a sensible option. That's what I would go with. Long term, no debris easy service, less risk.
 
I normally do get my builder in the Fire Shop Company said na dont need to builder to do any work, cowboys, customer wants a new liner put down rather be safe then sorry i just want it done correctly, So would you guy fit a flue box or plate at the bottom of the liner
would only liner if the flues shot,if its a typical 6 or 8 pot set up would do a flue flow test and check it only exits one flue if it exits more than one mid feathers(divisions between flue ways)have failed and lining is the only option if your to proceed with gas
 
Reg man best place to get flue box

Gas man customer has had movement in the house before it is pinned i said about a flow test but wants a liner
 
That's good then. It will eliminate any worries having it lined. Just cost a fair bit more on the job.
 
Put the price in and give them an alternative without if you think the old chimney is up to it.
 
Hmm,if they have already had a fair amount of movement remember with the liner, give a disclaimer on the chimney stack incase its shot.

i once got up and could rock it without exerting any real force.
Whole thing got re built.
 
If in doubt line it. Structural as in if it may fall down is a different story. But you have not said so.
 
If it were me I would get the chimney swept and do a thorough flue flow/smoke test. If the flue is sound then give them both options, I would only go down the liner route if necessary. Just bear in mind that if you go the starter box route t can make it tricky to fit a fire with concealed cable fixings as you won't be able to fix the eye bolts to the inside of the box..... Unless you get some real long ones that will go through the box and into the masonry behind, assuming the opening isn't too deep.
 
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