Discuss First fixing for raditors in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hey when first fixing for radiators were the pipes come up to the radiators through the floor. I know you add 45mm to each side of the radiator to give the pipe centres of the rad. valves. But how do people go about getting the distance from the finnished wall , I believe this is 75mm for a double rad. to the centre of the rad valve. Then is it guess work for the dot and dab plaster board thickness. Any one got any tips on how they do this?
 
If you have the rads then put the bracket on the rad and measure the distance from the back of the bracket to the Center of valve, then add 1" - 1.5" for dabbing, obv the dabbing could differ in size but not a great deal.
 
Get some radiator spec leaflets from whoever you get your radiators from. I have 2 different ones both state all sizes including distance from the wall depending on the bracket to centres short or long.

I allow 1 inch for the dab & board unless its a uneven wall and requires evening out it should not come out further than that.
 
allow for a 12mm plasterboard, 3mm skim and a 15-20mm dab void.

use a 32mm bit for the hole and dont fix the pipe to solid underneath to allow some movement, best to fit a timber under the pipe to stop it being pushed down under the floor by the other trades (put some lagging were it sits on the timber).

as for depth it depends on the manufacturer, i normally go approx- sc = 40mm, dp+ = 60mm, dc = 75mm (from plaster board). its hard to be bang on due the the difference in the dab tbh, check with the builder if any walls are being double boarded for higher fire rating.

also use some method to mark the rad postion on the wall and insist that the area is dabbed out for good fixings of your rads.
 
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if theres a void behind the dot and dab you can cut shorts of tube as spacers behind the bracket i usually do this after the impact driver has smashed the wall
 
If sticking the pipes out from the wall, I leave a tail of a good 300mm (with a push fit stop end fitted) and a good 75mm below the radiator. It makes things much easier for fitting the plasterboard and then the second fix just means soldering an elbow and cutting back the pipe.

Alternatively, I reduce to 10mm, have the pipes coming out in the approximate centre of the radiator (again 300mm or so.) Then bend new 10mm tube and fit behind the radiator so all that is seen is a small "loop" at the bottom of each end.

And if I don't trust the plasterer/builder to be careful I tell them if they pull the stop ends off, water will go everywhere.
 
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