Filling gaps between pipework and wall

[Nimo]

Hi All,
I recently re-tiled my bathroom and as such had to remove and then re-fit all the fixtures (toilet, basin, etc). The wall behind the basin and toilet is a "false" plasterboard wall and I cut holes in both the plasterboard and the tiles to connect supply and waste/drain pipes to the building pipework behind the wall.

There are little gaps between the pipework and tiled wall (see picture) and I'd like to be able to fill those up. Does anybody have any recommendations? I'm thinking grout, but that would stick to the pipework and may make future maintenance difficult. So silicone could be an option. But not sure, so I'm throwing this out to the all knowing plumbosphere.

 

[Whn1]

Just grout it mate, grouts easier to pick off than silicone.

 

[Whn1]

It'll look neater too as you can rub off the overspill when it's near dry.

 

[Dotty]

Mind you, when the anti flexi league see's this thread, the grout will be the least of your problems........

 

[Roger Welton]

Never mind the flexis I see ptfe on compression fitting threads aarrgghhhhhh......

 

[Veggie Dave]

Never mind the flexis I see ptfe on compression fitting threads aarrgghhhhhh......

But, but, but, I saw Tommy Walsh on TV the other day and he said you must put PTFE tape on the threads of every brass fitting otherwise they'll probably leak!

He's a TV expert and you're just a stupid plumber!

 

[PlumbBobBob]

i hope that the closer of the two pipes can't spring back into the wall if undone

 

[Nimo]

I put those flexis on (with the ptfe tape) because, well I'm not a plumber and I don't know how to bend and weld/seal copper pipes. Didn't have the tools for it either. Seemed a low cost and convenient option and has held up well. So is taping joints like that frowned upon or something? What's the harm in it? Not being rude - just curious.

Thanks all for the help though. My budget plumbing techniques aside, does grout seem like the best option? And no the copper pipe sticking through the gap is not being held there against its will, it would have pulled the flexi in with it if that were the case!

 

[Roger Welton]

The threads on the compression joints do not form the seal, it is the joint between the olive and the body of the fitting that does this, if you must put ptfe on compresion joints (shouldn't be needed on new fittings) then around the olive would be the place to do this.

 

[REDSAW]

why is the continuity bond not made?

 

[Keefy]

But, but, but, I saw Tommy Walsh on TV the other day and he said you must put PTFE tape on the threads of every brass fitting otherwise they'll probably leak!

He's a TV expert and you're just a stupid plumber!

I just read Tommy's tips on compression fittings at the [DLMURL="http://www.compressionplumbingfittings.co.uk/compression-fittings-in-Invergordon.php"]bottom of this page[/DLMURL] - he didn't mention PTFE. However he does recommend squeezing the ferrule.

Also, for that gap I'd probably go for grout rather than silicone Nimo.

 

[Guest123]

Apart from the flexies, you have made a joint that is inside the wall space. If you seal this hole up and the joint leaks some time in the future. you'll be ripping tiles off to get at it.
As Redsaw has pointed out, you must reconnect the earth bonding for safety reasons.

 

[Nimo]

I didn't make the join it was already there. This was the point where the old basin pipework went up to the taps. Once I retiled the floor (with thicker tiles) the old pipework would not have reconnected to the taps (too short) so I used flexies. But yeah, I appreciate the fact that they will be difficult to get at if I were to seal it up. Have been meanign to connect the earth bond up too.

 

[Guest123]

I also agree with the guys, use grout not silicone. You can buy a small tub of ready mixed grout for this cheaply and it will seal the gaps just fine. Silicone is a pig to remove if you ever need access to the pipework.

 

[heliotrope]

Mind you, when the anti flexi league see's this thread, the grout will be the least of your problems........

......and what about the PTFE tape on the comp threads:lol: :nono::nono:


did'nt read past croppie's post before I replied.

 

[lame plumber]

tickled pink here, worried about sealing the gap after using flexis with 90 degree bends and will be burying the nuts in grout. Leave as is cos when the flexi splits idc youll be needing immediate access.

 

[Guest123]

Yes Lame, that's what I said. He'll be ripping tiles off to get at the pipe! LOL

 

[on31ll]

i bet the continuity bond isnt on yet either !

 

[Solderman]

can yer missus sew ...... one answer would be nets from the ped to the wall

 

[Keefy]

Come on lads it's getting a bit low now. He's prepared to have a go and it's not like he's ignoring advice and pretending to be a know-it-all like some DIY'ers.

 

[Rickster123]

The little bit of tiling I can see looks like a great job! As whn1 said in post 2 I'd go with grout.

 

[Guest123]

22 posts on how to fill a wee hole. Let's start a poll, grout, silicone or the missus nail varnish. LOL

 

[Veggie Dave]

I just read Tommy's tips on compression fittings at the [DLMURL="http://www.compressionplumbingfittings.co.uk/compression-fittings-in-Invergordon.php"]bottom of this page[/DLMURL] - he didn't mention PTFE. However he does recommend squeezing the ferrule.

Tommy Walsh's DIY Survival - how to install an outside tap: using what I'm assuming is a B&Q kit, with self-cutting valve, garden hose pipe, no drain off and no separate double check valve.

It was a master class in builders' plumbing.

 

[Keefy]

Tommy Walsh's DIY Survival - how to install an outside tap: using what I'm assuming is a B&Q kit, with self-cutting valve, garden hose pipe, no drain off and no separate double check valve.

It was a master class in builders' plumbing.

I always fit a drain-off on my outside taps, not sure the regs say it's necessary though.

 

[Kyle87]

Did anybody mention that the compression nut can crack as its being forced over the ptfe tape when it's not been manufactured to cope with that particular strain.

Not havin a go. Just pointing out what is wrong with doing it as the op mentioned it being no harm

 

[Veggie Dave]

I always fit a drain-off on my outside taps, not sure the regs say it's necessary though.

I did my regs about 2.5/3 years ago so things may have changed, but we were taught that a drain was required to allow the pipework to be emptied during icy temperatures to prevent waste of water.

 

[Keefy]

I did my regs about 2.5/3 years ago so things may have changed, but we were taught that a drain was required to allow the pipework to be emptied during icy temperatures to prevent waste of water.

Ooooooh - a cup full? lol

Just looked in my WRAS book and there's no mention of a drain-off in the text or diagrams. Like I say though, I still fit one because it's handy for the customer - if they remember the simple instructions I left them.

How did we digress so far from the talk about a hole in a wall? :confused5:

 

[stevetheplumber]

i wouldnt let tommy walsh build a rabbit hutch since i watched him lay paving slabs on dabs of mortar and then he called a spade a shovel

 

[Baxi Bermuda]

Finger some plumbers mait in the gaps and touch up wit white emulsion = dogs testicles

 

[wiggers]

Why all the fuss bout filling in holes with sealant/grout etc your gonna need access sooner rather than later so I would not bother it looks like a dogs dinner anyway so why not just a little bit of wood paneling?