Durgo position in run?

[Shanth99]

Hi,

We’re converting an old store/workshop joined to our house and installing a small shower room with the wastes connecting to the old clay pipe in the floor where the original toilet once was.

We needed to bring the floor up 100mm for insulation and had a plumber set the new waste pipes for the basin and shower within this and connect to the clay pipe before we put the floor boards down.

Building control say we need to install a durgo valve and the plumber has not currently allowed for one on the run.

I’m wondering if we need one at the end of the run (sink), where everything joins the stack, or both...

My main issue is that the 110mm stack is positioned quite far forward away from the wall in the floor (220mm) so I’m already trying to use a space saving pan connector which will not allow a boss. If I can ‘get away’ with just the AAV at the sink end then that’s great, but I don’t want any problems further down the line.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I think you will need one bigger than a sink one

Could you have one in the corner by the toilet eg stub stack

 

[Shanth99]

Thanks for the reply.

Ideally I would, just not sure how to get the pipe work in place for it and still fit the toilet without setting it even further forward.

The rooms already tiny so was going to get a short projecting toilet. Was hoping to avoid having to build out the wall but maybe that’s my only option?

I’ve attached a photo of the toilet waste as it’s been left. Was even contemplating getting an offset coupler in the floor to push it back to the wall further as it’s currently 220mm from the wall and 200mm seems to be the limit for most toilets to sit back flush.

Any thoughts?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

As it looks like a timber floor why not adjust the waste so you have a vent on the left and your toilet on the right ?

 

[Shanth99]

As it looks like a timber floor why not adjust the waste so you have a vent on the left and your toilet on the right ?

Not sure I have the height to be able to do it.

The timber floor sits on 100mm insulation laid on top of the old concrete floor. The existing clay pipe sat above the concrete floor so the plumber used a shallow Macalpine coupler with boss to bring it just below current floor level and be able to connect the shower/basin waste.

I can’t see that we can branch off and keep the height low enough?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Need to start digging down into the concrete to add a tee

 

[Shanth99]

Need to start digging down into the concrete to add a tee

Afraid you might say that

 

[Chalked]

Can you install a vent on the outside?

 

[Shanth99]

Can you install a vent on the outside?

In theory I could go through the side wall to the left but I would still have the issue of being able to branch off what’s there?
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Spoke to a plumber friend tonight and he said I could possibly tee off in 40mm to the AAV. Do you think this is acceptable?

It would mean changing the pan connector to one that isn’t space saving as I can’t see that one exists but I’d rather pack the toilet off the wall 50-100mm than dig out the concrete...

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I wouldn’t say so best people to ask is building control as they will be signing it off

 

[oz-plumber]

Get your plumber to find the nearest vent and see if it in allowable distance for the new fixtures.
If the original pan didn't have a vent then whu should the new pan require a vent.
You may be adding a couple of new fixtures, but that shouldn't hinder the ventilation of the drain.
I'm all for adding vents into drains, and if in doubt add one, but not when one is not necessary.
AAV's for me are an absolute last resort, I would rather vent to atmosphere