Does A New Washer On F&E Part 1 Ball Valve Normally Stop The Dripping?

[plumbandplumber]

The F&E tank in my mums loft is dripping through overflow. It's fitted with old type Portsmouth/part1 ballcock. I would usually replace the whole valve, however the tank is in a nightmare position. It's high up on a platform, just under the roof tiles. The cold water tank is in front of the F&E tank, blocking access. To make matters worse, both tanks are inside an insulated wooden box that is built around them.

I can reach the part of the F&E's valve which is inside the tank, but not the outside of the valve where the supply pipe joins it. If I just replace the valve's washer, will this normally solve the drip? Whilst I have the valve apart, is there anything else I should service or replace inside it? What can I do to help make sure I cure the drip first time (it's 300 bloody degrees and I'm balancing a stepladder on joists up there :sunny:)


If the valve is knackered, will it be possible to split the valve from where the main body screws onto the threaded part (near the plastic seat) that passes through hole in tank? Then just screw in a new body from a new valve? As said, i have zero access to the valve on the outside of tank where it joins to the tap fitting and supply pipe.

Many thanks for any advice. If I can't fix valve from inside F&E tank, I think both tanks may have to come out. I want to avoid this.

 

[R1CKY]

Yes a new washer will remedy it, personally I'd just split the valve at the large brass nut if possible and replace it from there.

 

[plumbandplumber]

Thanks. So a part 1 valve body on an old valve will screw straight onto a new one? Same thread?

 

[R1CKY]

I've never come across one that isn't.

 

[Dave Walker]

Check the valve seat to. these can sometimes crack so replacing the washer won't do the job.

 

[CXR100]

i alway split them and place a new part 2 no matter how easy the access is, unless its a plastic one then i take them out and fully replace!

 

[TBServices]

Sounds risky to me, if the threads are tight and the shank ends up spinning, he could end up with a leak in a place he can't get to.

 

[plumbandplumber]

Sounds risky to me, if the threads are tight and the shank ends up spinning, he could end up with a leak in a place he can't get to.

Yes, this is my one big worry, a leak where the supply pipe joins to the thread on outside of tank. Hopefully should be able to get a good grip on valve body before turning nut to split the valve.

All I can then do when all back together and working, is get my hand down the outside of the tank to feel where the supply pipe joins - and pray to God that the joint wasn't disturbed. :mad2:

 

[Resolute]

Make sure you hold against yourself as you split the valve. I used to do loads of these and only came across 1 that I couldn't split.

 

[plumbandplumber]

Thanks to all. Successfully completed. Was the small job from hell that took 3 hrs in a sweltering loft Tuesday before last.

The tanks were high up on a platform just under the tiles in a corner. Was balancing a step ladder on joists with it lashed with a rope to side of platform. The tanks had a wooden box built around them same higher than the height of the CWSC and the F&E tank whose float valve was dripping was behind the larger CWSC. So was peering over the side of the wodden box (which is full of some kind of insulation - hope it doesn't begin with 'A') with a torch (no loft light!!!) and the ball valve was the far side of tanks, so had to stretch across the F&E tank to work on it's ball valve.

Tried splitting the valve's nut inside tank where the seat and fibre washer are. Very tight and as I was reaching full stretch at an odd angle, I couldn't get too much leverage on spanners anyhow. In the end I settled for removing end cap, split pin and pulling the piston out the end.

The washer was mullered, but I also discovered that the float had a little water in it. The brass piston was a nightmare as the end didn't want to unscrew to get access to the washer. Some heat got it moving. Cleaned the piston up with wet and dry, new washer, new float and s/pin.

All back together after another balancing act. Bingo! No more dripping from overflow!

This was the 'little' job that turned into the job from hell. At the end of it, I was covered in sweat, grime and cobwebs.

The joys of plumbing! :cuss: