Search the forum,

Discuss CH Pump Valve - converting to male BSP in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
M

marshr02

Hi there - bought a pegler CH pump valve - 1 1/2" to 22mm compression fitting (are there any other with difference connections). Thought that I could remove the compression nut and olive and connect to a 3/4" BSP female coupler - but the screw thread won't engage in the coupler. I've done this before with 15mm compression fittings. Thanks for any help...
 
If you go to any good commercial merchants. (Bss or pipe centre) they will have these valves available
 
You won't be able to do it with the 3/4" because its a smaller size. You'll have to replace the nut and olive to. Ideally you'd get yourself another 3/4" olive for the job, but ive never had any problems compressing 22mm on to a 3/4" pipe
 
No - think I've not described it. I expected to be able to remove the nut and olive and throw away. Then get a 3/4" BSP female and screw into that with Loctite string or sim.
 
Making up a UFH manifold - only 2 loops - so too big for conservatory kit and too small to spend stupid money on pre-made. The manifold will be quite heavy and could flex while being installed/maintained - and so the compression fittings could weep. Second reason is if I have any problems with the compression fittings then I would usually cut 20mm of the pipe and start again - in this case there would be no room for that before hitting a T piece.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Not another underfloor heating bodge. Do it properly.
What's to bodge. Has auto air purge, drain points, overheat stat, balance controls on each of the two legs, blending valve. The control is a modified S plan - using two zone valves. If you examine a manufactured manifold you'll see these are the main components - all I've missed off on careful consideration is a pressure valve. UFH is a fairly simple technology really, and there's no need for the high price of the off the shelf components other that it's still seen as an aspirational product. This is fitted in my basic terraced house not some grand designs jobbie...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Use a short bit of 22mm copper and a 22mm compression to female 3/4 adaptor
 
Thanks for reply scott. Not sure I get it. The Pump valve has a 22m compression end that I want to avoid, and the thread left after the nut & olive are removed isn't 3/4" BSP..
 
I see it took an extra 5 minutes to defend your bodge. Crack on.
I really welcome any info as to why what I'm doing could be improved - so it's worth putting the info out to be genially critiqued. My main areas of concern are too many joints with a risk of leaking, the second being I've missed something key, and third not wanting to create something that is difficult for a 3rd party to fix/maintain in the future.
 
I really welcome any info as to why what I'm doing could be improved - so it's worth putting the info out to be genially critiqued. My main areas of concern are too many joints with a risk of leaking, the second being I've missed something key, and third not wanting to create something that is difficult for a 3rd party to fix/maintain in the future.

You've knocked together your own underfloor heating manifold, but are struggling with a thread. Says it all really. Like I said to do it properly.
 
Simon - had a bad day?

Aye a real shocker! Even more so when I read about diy ufh systems :) Just rounds it off for me :)

On a more serious note, it's not where you connected the two port is it, different threads on 2 ports and conventional fittings.
 
Aye a real shocker! Even more so when I read about diy ufh systems :) Just rounds it off for me :)

On a more serious note, it's not where you connected the two port is it, different threads on 2 ports and conventional fittings.
If you mean the 2 port zone valve no - these are located on the ground floor.
 
Put the old fitting back on, put a spanner behind the nut and tap it off with a hammer. Crude but effective.
 
Put the old fitting back on, put a spanner behind the nut and tap it off with a hammer. Crude but effective.
Sorry lost you? The fitting is brand new, not used yet. Nothing is jammed or similar.
 
Okay - just for info here is the DIY UFH *bodge*; Conventional terrace house with radiators. Put pipes in screed in cold basement, inserted two 2-port zone valves (in ground floor) into flow pipe from boiler to split into a 2 zone system, with two programmable thermostatic controls, one in the basement, one in the hall (like normal) to among other things allow for the different thermal characteristics of UFH vs Rads. The *manifold* serving just 2 small loops (small house - 2 basement rooms knocked into one) has OH pipe stat as well as pump, and blending valve. The pump, and zone valves are likely items to be replaced and are all off the shelf and familiar to all plumbers so nothing too exotic.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Solder the pipe into the compression end if you want to avoid a compression fitting, then hope the valve works in 5 years time. What about supporting the pump properly?

Are you really tight for space or something?
 
Okay - just for info here is the DIY UFH *bodge*; Conventional terrace house with radiators. Put pipes in screed in cold basement, inserted two 2-port zone valves (in ground floor) into flow pipe from boiler to split into a 2 zone system, with two programmable thermostatic controls, one in the basement, one in the hall (like normal) to among other things allow for the different thermal characteristics of UFH vs Rads. The *manifold* serving just 2 small loops (small house - 2 basement rooms knocked into one) has OH pipe stat as well as pump, and blending valve. The pump, and zone valves are likely items to be replaced and are all off the shelf and familiar to all plumbers so nothing too exotic.

What blending valve, just out of interest.
 
Solder the pipe into the compression end if you want to avoid a compression fitting, then hope the valve works in 5 years time. What about supporting the pump properly?

Are you really tight for space or something?
Wow, a genuine reply. Thanks. Yes a little tight for space. I'm aiming for support the entire thing properly, and the question at the start of this was a throwaway just aimed at slightly improving my design. Cheers
 
ive no problem with someone making up a manifold especially as it sounds like he has incorporated all the necessary parts i agree that manifolds are over priced for what they are especially for small areas
ok he has come across a problem he didnt expecct thats why he has come here
either we make this forum a closed shop or we give advice we cant have it both ways
to the op unfortunately 22mm fittings dont have 3/4 threads on them but you can get pump cons with 3/4 threads try a good merchants
 
Last edited:
Send us a pic when it fails
Give me a reason why it might fail? I might change my design. Nothing committed to yet. Otherwise just throwing around some negativity doesn't reflect well on your professionalism.
 
Okay - will check this out. I came on this for technical advice, and I may just have come away with something at last.
 
A bath mixer valve. Interesting.
Okay - will check this out. I came on this for technical advice, and I may just have come away with something at last. YES you're right - no idea why I settled on this yonks ago - the Heatguard UFH Blending Valve looks the right one though?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to CH Pump Valve - converting to male BSP in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hi. I need a new toilet supply line but don’t know the size type of the fitting at the shut off valve. It is not 3/8 compression. It is a plastic...
Replies
2
Views
227
The fittings below are for a mixer bar attached to a self contained shower. i.e not a wall. The attaching screws have snapped. I could get two new...
Replies
1
Views
240
I have had a look at previous posts and think I know the answer to this but just before I make it worse could I just check what you think about...
Replies
7
Views
240
  • Question
Ideal Logic 24, Previous problem was that the hot water was only cold or barely warm if the heating was in use. If heating was off and boiler cold...
Replies
2
Views
186
Hi all I'm hoping someone can shine a light on this for me Since our stop tap on the pavement has now been filled with sand for whatever reason...
Replies
3
Views
306
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock