CH Pump Valve - converting to male BSP

[marshr02]

Hi there - bought a pegler CH pump valve - 1 1/2" to 22mm compression fitting (are there any other with difference connections). Thought that I could remove the compression nut and olive and connect to a 3/4" BSP female coupler - but the screw thread won't engage in the coupler. I've done this before with 15mm compression fittings. Thanks for any help...

 

[SimonJohns]

If you go to any good commercial merchants. (Bss or pipe centre) they will have these valves available

 

[marshr02]

If you go to any good commercial merchants. (Bss or pipe centre) they will have these valves available

Thanks for quick reply - will check this out - the websites don't seem to give much info

 

[M G]

You won't be able to do it with the 3/4" because its a smaller size. You'll have to replace the nut and olive to. Ideally you'd get yourself another 3/4" olive for the job, but ive never had any problems compressing 22mm on to a 3/4" pipe

 

[marshr02]

No - think I've not described it. I expected to be able to remove the nut and olive and throw away. Then get a 3/4" BSP female and screw into that with Loctite string or sim.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

why do you want to do that?

 

[marshr02]

Making up a UFH manifold - only 2 loops - so too big for conservatory kit and too small to spend stupid money on pre-made. The manifold will be quite heavy and could flex while being installed/maintained - and so the compression fittings could weep. Second reason is if I have any problems with the compression fittings then I would usually cut 20mm of the pipe and start again - in this case there would be no room for that before hitting a T piece.

 

[SimonG]

Not another underfloor heating bodge. Do it properly.

 

[marshr02]

Not another underfloor heating bodge. Do it properly.

Thanks for the advice - but anyhow ... back to the question.

 

[marshr02]

Not another underfloor heating bodge. Do it properly.

What's to bodge. Has auto air purge, drain points, overheat stat, balance controls on each of the two legs, blending valve. The control is a modified S plan - using two zone valves. If you examine a manufactured manifold you'll see these are the main components - all I've missed off on careful consideration is a pressure valve. UFH is a fairly simple technology really, and there's no need for the high price of the off the shelf components other that it's still seen as an aspirational product. This is fitted in my basic terraced house not some grand designs jobbie...

 

[Scott_D]

Use a short bit of 22mm copper and a 22mm compression to female 3/4 adaptor

 

[SimonG]

I see it took an extra 5 minutes to defend your bodge. Crack on.

 

[marshr02]

Thanks for reply scott. Not sure I get it. The Pump valve has a 22m compression end that I want to avoid, and the thread left after the nut & olive are removed isn't 3/4" BSP..

 

[marshr02]

I see it took an extra 5 minutes to defend your bodge. Crack on.

I really welcome any info as to why what I'm doing could be improved - so it's worth putting the info out to be genially critiqued. My main areas of concern are too many joints with a risk of leaking, the second being I've missed something key, and third not wanting to create something that is difficult for a 3rd party to fix/maintain in the future.

 

[Scott_D]

You will have to use the compression fitting with the nut and olive supplied or change the valves
The thread is not the same as that in a 3/4 fitting, see this thread
http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/fittings-pipes/55910-why-called-1-2-inch.html