Discuss basic isolation question in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Jr4300

guys

Apologies for the noobness of this, but im only in my 4th week of an evening part time course!!!

I've got the opportunity to work on my brother in laws kitchen as a bit of practice whilst its being renovated

i need to isolate the the hot and cold water under his sink, (doesnt currently have isolating valves), and then install him some isolating valves ready for when he fits his new sink unit.

Would i be right in guessing I just need to isolate all the water via stopcock, remove his current taps and sink, lop the tops off the existing pipe to allow me to fit the iso valves, and then leave it as is until he gets his new sink?

hes not relocating at all, or changing height of the tops etc,

again apologies for the simplicity of the question but im learning as i go!!
 
if he has a combi boiler then yes shut off stopcock and open the upstairs taps then downstairs ones as this will drain any water left behind and also stop you getting wet.

If it has a cylinder and tanks in loft these would need draining down as well as in addition to switching off stopcock.

Dont forget that when cutting in an iso to allow for the height of the iso and its x dimensions for the pipe to go into the end to allow for the right height.

a good distance for hot and cold pipes is 21 inches off the floor, 6 inches between hot and cold, elbow out for six inches and pop an iso on the end, this will make for easy second fixing.
 
What public liability cover you got? Friends won't stay friends if you flood his kitchen practising.
 
cheers for the replies

from memory its a combi, so will drain via taps, i'll go with the 21 inch measurement from floor to begin with, im not fitting the piping above the ISO as yet as he doesnt have the new taps for me to measure so will do that at a later date. (when you say 6 inch between hold and cold do you mean in relation to each other? so hot at 21 inches and cold at either 15inches or 27inches?, or as you say elbow, keep them both at 21 inches and using the elbow have the hot against the wall and the cold ofset 6 inches away from the wall?)

no insurance at all, im doing it under supervision of his dad (my father in law) who is a qualified plumber, he wont let it go wrong, but if it does its a concrete shell at present so easily fixable :)
 
Still something you want to get sorted as you find your feet and doing little jobs unsupervised.
 
Still something you want to get sorted as you find your feet and doing little jobs unsupervised.

definately will do, essential or anything un-supervised, father in law was going to do the work himself but thought may as well let me have a go whilst hes there so i can learn on the job, plus he has all the tools and know how :)

i wont do anything i dont feel comfortable doing anyway, im willing to give ought a try but within reason, i dont want damage peoples property or my reputation before i even get started!
 
cheers for the replies

from memory its a combi, so will drain via taps, i'll go with the 21 inch measurement from floor to begin with, im not fitting the piping above the ISO as yet as he doesnt have the new taps for me to measure so will do that at a later date. (when you say 6 inch between hold and cold do you mean in relation to each other? so hot at 21 inches and cold at either 15inches or 27inches?, or as you say elbow, keep them both at 21 inches and using the elbow have the hot against the wall and the cold ofset 6 inches away from the wall?)

no insurance at all, im doing it under supervision of his dad (my father in law) who is a qualified plumber, he wont let it go wrong, but if it does its a concrete shell at present so easily fixable :)

He means 21" above floor and 6" between hot and cold, if pipes are already there then centre line position will already be there just cut them down to fit the valves,
 
He means 21" above floor and 6" between hot and cold, if pipes are already there then centre line position will already be there just cut them down to fit the valves,

ah i see, thanks very much!!!

turns out hes got a cylinder and tank so will have to figure out how to drain them, im sure father in law will show me as we go, quite lucky to have him around to teach me outside the college walls!
 
turns out hes got a cylinder and tank so will have to figure out how to drain them

Don't drain them, there is no need, isolate the CWSC, he will show you all this, also ask him what to do if there is no gate valve or it is broke, involves a hose stuck on an ISO, allowing flow, while you jam it on the pipe, again no need to drain.

Get him to show you how to clear an airlock on HW side as well
 
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cwsc?
hw side?

sorry if i should know those acronyms, only done soldering and bending and x dimensions thus far :S
 
cwsc?
hw side?

sorry if i should know those acronyms, only done soldering and bending and x dimensions thus far :S

cwsc is cold water storage cistern ( the big tank in the loft that feeds the cylinder)

hw side is hot water side

I think you should wait till you are in week 10 before you break your brother in laws house ( don't mean to be harsh)
 
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