advice needed for flush mechanism inside toilet tank

[earlycomputers]

Hi - hoping to get a quick bit of advice from someone re the inside of my toilet tank. When the flush is pushed down the tank fills up really slowly and thus there is a long wait until it's possible to flush again, because the lever mechanism inside appears to 'stick'. When the ball is pushed down manually the water comes out much faster. The orange ball pops up when the water is deep enough and this stops the water filling up ok. When the water stops filling up it goes up just to the level of the hollow tube (overflow pipe?) which is just above the orange ball on the far left of the picture. I have attached a picture:


The questions I have are: is there any way to move the orange ball (and lever) to the right a bit so it doesn't catch on the left of the tank (and thus improve water flow)? Also, when the tank is full, should the water go right up to the level of the hollow pipe? What if the water goes into this pipe?
Excuse the ignorant questions, but I am not a plumber! many thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Radioman]

Yes you can move the whole of the ball valve but in doing so it will probably leak as it looks as if it's been in situ for a while and the washer will be hard. The plastic tube is the overflow and should exit outside the property. You could try to screw the plastic support on top of the valve in a wee bit

 

[itcanbesoeasy]

the first thing I want to know is the water fed directly from the mains or is it tank fed from a cold water tank situated usually in the attic or sometimes in a airing cupboard,
inside the ballvalve is an orifice,there are 2 size's, a white one for mains pressure with a small hole,this could be blocked stopping the flow of water or a red one for tank fed which has a bigger hole.
for now to stop the float (orange ball) hitting the side of the cistern,cut the white plastic bit off that is touching the cistern the opposite end of the orange ball (float) which is forcing the float to touch the cistern as suggested by radioman,

as long as the water level doesn't pass the overflow (hollow pipe) and start trickling down it, there's no problem,if it does then a new ballvalve is needed, can you do this yourself if not ask for more advice as you need to fit the right one if it's tank fed,

 

[PlumbBobBob]

you can get a smaller ball so that it doesn't catch on the side of the cistern

 

[JCplumb]

As above, smaller ball should do the trick, the water level adjustment screw will probably need tightening though as my guess is that a smaller ball will raise the water level a little bit, so if your current level is just at the top of the overflow pipe it will need adjusting.
Failing that, replace with a torbeck type valve if it will fit behind the flush handle, or a valve that has an adjustable arm length.

 

[Best]

You can get a ball that is about same diameter, but has internal threads for the arm of the valve to screw into. That would mean the new ball would shorten the length of whole valve and not touch the cistern.
The valve had been fitted wrong and needed turned a little to the back, but doing that now, as said in above replies could risk leak.
I would be careful touching the screw support as it has to be adjusted at a no strain distance just touching the cistern side when no water in cistern. It is there for a purpose, so the valve doesn't get strained.