Discuss Automatic Bypass Valve Query in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Messages
67
I had an automatic bypass valve fitted to my unvented system yesterday and it was left at 0.4. Goes from 0.1-0.5. Anyhow I thought I would set it today according to the instructions. So I closed it off completely to th 0.5 mark and then turned all the trvs on. I then began turning it until the pipe started to get warm. Problem is the abv is in the airing cupboard and it is fitted to the pipes marked flow and return. The flow pipe is hot but the return pipe remains stone cold. Even after leaving the heating on for 10 minutes. So turning the valve makes no difference. Am I doing something wrong? Why is the return pipe stone cold?
I just tried turning the heating off and the pipe from the ABV got red hot even though the ABV is turned off

Ignore the non copper pipes. These are from the old system and are redundant.

1DF76530-1700-4B42-BDB7-F3C973336CB4.jpeg

C17E0433-5D32-4663-A54D-ECBA533B2173.jpeg
 
I presume the pipe to the zone valve is the flow? If it is then the abv looks to fitted the wrong way.
Do you mean the horizontal one? The horizontal one is coming downhill from the flow to return. Is this wrong? The return is on the left of the bypass and the flow is on the top (horizontal), the one with the arrow. The zone valve is attached to the return.
The unvented hot water cylinder is in the loft so the abv is before the zone valve from the boiler but after the zone valve coming down from the cylinder.

D83F4FDB-703C-4A88-9D98-FA16ADBACA14.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I had an automatic bypass valve fitted to my unvented system yesterday and it was left at 0.4. Goes from 0.1-0.5. Anyhow I thought I would set it today according to the instructions. So I closed it off completely to th 0.5 mark and then turned all the trvs on. I then began turning it until the pipe started to get warm. Problem is the abv is in the airing cupboard and it is fitted to the pipes marked flow and return. The flow pipe is hot but the return pipe remains stone cold. Even after leaving the heating on for 10 minutes. So turning the valve makes no difference. Am I doing something wrong? Why is the return pipe stone cold?
I just tried turning the heating off and the pipe from the ABV got red hot even though the ABV is turned off

Ignore the non copper pipes. These are from the old system and are redundant.

View attachment 36343
View attachment 36344
I had an automatic bypass valve fitted to my unvented system yesterday and it was left at 0.4. Goes from 0.1-0.5. Anyhow I thought I would set it today according to the instructions. So I closed it off completely to th 0.5 mark and then turned all the trvs on. I then began turning it until the pipe started to get warm. Problem is the abv is in the airing cupboard and it is fitted to the pipes marked flow and return. The flow pipe is hot but the return pipe remains stone cold. Even after leaving the heating on for 10 minutes. So turning the valve makes no difference. Am I doing something wrong? Why is the return pipe stone cold?
I just tried turning the heating off and the pipe from the ABV got red hot even though the ABV is turned off

Ignore the non copper pipes. These are from the old system and are redundant.

View attachment 36343
View attachment 36344

The 0.1 to 0.5 settings are 0.1 bar to 0.5 bar or 1 M (meter) to 5 m.
The purpose of the ABV is to to maintain a minimum flow rate through the boiler on pump over run and also to maintain a minimum flow rate in the event of a very low heat demand where some/all of the TRVs are throttled in.
I presume that you were just testing its functionality with the above test with all TRVs ON (open??) and a setting of 1 M (0.1). Now the circ pump, depending on its speed setting may or may not be producing 1 M head with a large flow rate (all TRVs open) so you may not have got any flow rate due to this (pump head < 1 M) and maybe a circ pump speed setting of only 1?.
You could look at the pump make/model & current speed setting, then assuming that you need say 0.3 M3 per hour flowrate, by looking at the pump speed curves you can see what pump head is required, for example if the speed setting is 2 then the pump head at this speed required might be 3M so you would set the ABV to 0.3, and so on, you can then test it by shutting off the TRVs and ensure it is then opening.
 
Hi folks me again. Something is not right since the bypass has been fitted. Nearly every night at 6.40pm there a crackling /gushing water sound through the lounge radiator valve. This rad is nearest to the boiler. I have the hot water cylinder programmed on my evohome system to turn off at 6.40pm so I think it’s linked to this. Any ideas why this is happening?
 
New posts

Reply to Automatic Bypass Valve Query in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

I have a heating system comprised of skirting radiators that form part of a loop from the boiler, round the house and back. Some rooms get...
Replies
1
Views
151
  • Question
A plumber recently told me my bypass pipework is poorly designed as it’s offering a low path of resistance v the motorised valve T junctions, and...
Replies
17
Views
2K
Do people with this type of mixed flow temperature control have any problems with achieving the required manifold flow temperature? The one below...
Replies
3
Views
677
Hi All Bit of an urgent one being that time of year and can't get a plumber out until after xmas even on an emergency callout I have just...
Replies
2
Views
325
    • Like
Hello, my Mothers heating failed in the recent UK cold snap. I found the pump was stuck. I have a question about pump orientation. The...
Replies
8
Views
673
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock