Essex Flange for a Shower Pump

[Jonplumb]

I want to install an Essex Flange to the cylinder for a shower pump. (Cylinder is surrounded by shelving plus is about 15 years old and has overlapping pipes at top connection so I'd prefer to drill a hole in the cylinder and leave the older connections alone)
The flange I have is the E1R type

3/4 inch with no compression fitting. Can I use male couplers on either side of this type of flange to connect 3/4 inch pipe to and from the cylinder? Or would you solder some suitable brass threads onto the outside of the flange to convert it to a compression fitting type flange? Is it advisable not to have a compression fitting inside the cylinder submerged in water permanently? Would really appreciate any advice. Thanks very much in advance!! (Sorry for sending PMs of this to a few guys!! My first time using this!)

 

[Ben-gee]

Just use a male iron to compression.
If it’s an old tank I would be more worried about problems associated with removing the immersion than simply altering a bit of pipework.....

 

[Rob Foster]

Remove an immersion ....if you get it wrong curtains. Always leave it full of water with the drain connected to a hose. this way the cylinder is stronger and will not crumple, when just loose drain water out ..simplse
Cenralheatking, bit of heat but don’t burn the plastic stuff

 

[Ben-gee]

You obviously don’t live with hard water!
Leave tank full to crack open immersion, as you say to maintain integrity of wafer thin copper.
Then whip off top connection, bung hose pipe in and suck away! Syphon out tank in minutes - but via draincock at bottom amongst all the sludge it takes hours!
Plus no worry of drain cock weeping afterwards.
To finish off , 9 iron or wedge through immersion hole and oik out the scale with aid of wet vacuum.

 

[Rob Foster]

You obviously don’t live with hard water!
Leave tank full to crack open immersion, as you say to maintain integrity of wafer thin copper.
Then whip off top connection, bung hose pipe in and suck away! Syphon out tank in minutes - but via draincock at bottom amongst all the sludge it takes hours!
Plus no worry of drain cock weeping afterwards.
To finish off , 9 iron or wedge through immersion hole and oik out the scale with aid of wet vacuum.

Used to do this in Bath ..yes ur right but we usually scrapped them if that bad ...however one good trick when the hot water flow gets slow is to turn of water supply , crack open top nut move it over and use a masonry drill to clear the blockage ....the rock migrates to the top nut . Bingo full,bore hot water supply restored

 

[Jonplumb]

Thanks very much for all the replies!! I'll probably leave the immersion alone and use the male iron to compression fittings. Cheers!

 

[Best]

Essex flanges are probably the most hateful plumbing invention.
I never use them, except to do a swap when they start flooding.
I would use Surrey or Warix flange in top of cylinder, regardless of the work involved

 

[Jonplumb]

Essex flanges are probably the most hateful plumbing invention.
I never use them, except to do a swap when they start flooding.
I would use Surrey or Warix flange in top of cylinder, regardless of the work involved

Good to know. Do you think anyone out there still uses them at all?

 

[Best]

Good to know. Do you think anyone out there still uses them at all?

Yes, some people still use them. It is one of the methods pump manufacturers state for hot draw off.
The flanges for screwing into top of cylinders are easier to install and no drilling.
Heat eventually destroys the soft rubber washers on Essex flanges

 

[Rob Foster]

Yes, some people still use them. It is one of the methods pump manufacturers state for hot draw off.
The flanges for screwing into top of cylinders are easier to install and no drilling.
Heat eventually destroys the soft rubber washers on Essex flanges

Bes gas electric avenue Brum
Chk