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weatherbadger

Hello

I'm wondering if I can replace a Saniflow in a loft shower-room using 110mm soil pipe.

The soil pipe run would be:
135deg bend at back of toilet.
1.5m straight.
90deg bend (I could do this as 2x 135degs)
5.5m straight.
then a 90deg turn to the outside stack.

Total length ~8m, with around 10cm drop (which I think is okay).

I know building regs advise a 6m limit to a horizontal soil run. So am I stuck with the Saniflow?

There would be a shower/basin joining the soil-pipe behind the loo, with some anti-syphon thing. Perhaps this would help flush things along (including the building regs folks?)

Thanks for your thoughts.

James
 
Hello, thanks for looking.
The bottom of the soil pipe at the back of the loo is ~12-13cm from the floor and there would be a 7m run til it goes out of the roof. 7x0.18=12.6cm so I think I would be around okay, or could raise the loo up 1 cm to be safe.
However, I'm mainly concerned about exceeding the 6m.
 
You could add additional ventilation. The regs are there for a reason though. Is this a new bathroom
 
It's a 10 year old loft conversion. Then, the saniflow (which pumps up and over to get to the downpipe) was deemed the easiest option.

If I fitted an air admittance valve where would this best go?
 
James, is this your property or something you are pricing up to quote for, because your last sentence in post #4 worries me tbh.
 
Ha - rumbled! It's my property. I would be happy replacing the knackered Saniflow myself, but if fitting a soil pipe is do-able then I'll get someone in.
 
Ha - rumbled! It's my property. I would be happy replacing the knackered Saniflow myself, but if fitting a soil pipe is do-able then I'll get someone in.

That's fair enough mate however don't squeeze the numbers to make them suit or it could backfire.
 
Yes, cheers for your thoughts. I think being over the recommended limits, means I'll stay Saniflow. Plus it'll be cheaper.
 
Pray no power cuts then. Take a look at the Saniaccess but note the higher side inlets.
 
I'm expecting they've got a lot quieter in the last 10 years.
 
A 1:80 fall will work perfectly well but can be quite hard to achieve uniformly once bends are introduced.
Just check for dips using a long level (maybe in conjunction with a long straight edge) or a laser and clip or otherwise fix the pipes in position.
Make sure you fit handholes on 90's and branches and fit a durgo at the highest point. It will only cost an extra 30 or 40 £
 
A 1:80 fall will work perfectly well but can be quite hard to achieve uniformly once bends are introduced.
Just check for dips using a long level (maybe in conjunction with a long straight edge) or a laser and clip or otherwise fix the pipes in position.
Make sure you fit handholes on 90's and branches and fit a durgo at the highest point. It will only cost an extra 30 or 40 £

Would 1:80 pass building regs Tamz?
 
Do you really thing they would gaf?

1:100 is minimum for a 4" but very hard to achieve accurately due to plastic pipes having a bow in them (as the size goes up so does the min gradient ie 6" pipe 1:150, 8" pipe 1:200 etc etc. Do you think a shyte knows what size pipe it is in
 
I'm expecting they've got a lot quieter in the last 10 years.

After 10yrs I would expect yours to be way down on discharge pressure and noisy so yes it will be quieter. If you put a new one in then use carpet or underlay underneath it and behind if it`s touching a wall as anti-vibration pads and if you want to go the full monty then construct a simple 4 panel box around it and fill the box with loft insulation up to but not over the lid.
 
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