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kevcrane

Hi everyone

Im draining down an unvented stystem on the first floor, but I can't see the filling loop anywhere, or where one would attach. Surely it needs to be pressurised to 1.4bar, but how???
 
It will be the plastic key you need to insert underneath the boiler,
 
Pull the white cover on the underside of the boiler amd see if theres a plastic key on it kev
 
If there is it goes between the 2 end pipes to the right ( flow pipe and the cold ) push it up lining up the plastic lugs and give it a qaurter turn , then there should be a little plastic square next to it , by turning that clockwise should start to fill,
Thats if its a key fill boiler,,,
 
Is there no gauge on the boiler, i know you said worcester and most of there boilers the gauge is on the front of the boiler, and usually mechanical not digital , what make of worcester ???
 
I'm not back at the house until the morning, so I'm not sure at this point. I've never come across this before Kris
 
There in them all now kev , infact the key has just been changed by worcester, last couple boilers ive fitted have came with a keyless filling point thats bolted to the boiler linking the return pipoe to the cold ,,, i fear a load of folks were loosing the key and its easy to use but i can see how a pensioner would struggle so glad thyve done away with it,,, sounds like is the key one youve got,,
 
I did forget to say Kris, it's not a combi, it's got a cylinder and pressure vessel. I'm well and truly stuck
 
Check to see if its not near the coil on the cylinder,
Ive fitted one in kitchen unit b4 as the boiler was in loft so i put a filling point in unit for ease of access,
You sure the boiler is pressurised and not just the cylinder,, ??
Have you drained the system ???
 
I've not drained it yet Kris, good job really. I just usually fit bathrooms, that's all. Are you saying there could be an f^e tank in the loft??
 
Yeh possibly , the heating may be gravity fed and its the hot water thats pressurised, sounds like thats what it is , , thats just as easy just isolate cold water then drain heating remember to open airing points when draining ,
 
Either an f and e in the loft or a standard braided hose flexi filling loop connected to a valve with a pressure guage adjacent to the usually red expansion vessel in the cylinder cupboard
 
Hi Kris
You were right, theres an f&e tank in the loft. I've put the new radiator in and it's working like a dream, only problem is, half of them aren't working in the newish extension. They've used micro bore in there. Don't know if that's why, I've got all the air out of the system. Don't suppose you have any ideas do you??? Maybe need rebalancing?? Sorry to bother you
 
shut em all down kev, keep a note of how many turns you used to off on your lock shields on the existing old rads, then go to the radiator which is the last or longest run on the system, slowly open the locksheild bit by bit until you get heat into the rad ( you will probably find this one will be fully open ) then go back to the next on the circuit until all rads are hot ! it can be a complete nightmare but patience and logic is key !! good luck mate !
 
I wouldnt worry about balancing at this stage.
I would run heating for a few mins and turn off any rads that get hot. Leave it s few mins then see if any of the others have heated up ( they should because closing tge hot ones is making the circuit smaller and the pump can often then move air pockets) repeat until all of the open rads are hot then uou can open them all and uou should be fine.
 
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