Link uo solid fuel stove with oil boiler

[Joe Drakeford]

Hi again

Just wondering if anyone can give their opinion on linking up a stove and boiler.

The boiler and hot water tank are sealed, the house is a bungalow with a megaflow tank at floor level.

I guess a thermal store would be recommended but after researching this it looks like it will cost me around £3000 for the tank and controls too expensive I think as the wood burner is only to supplement and will be mainly used in the evenings.

1. H2 control panel pre wired from heating innovations. Approx £1000 inc buffer tank (instead of heat leak rad), would have to open vent the boiler. The buffer tank would have a naturally opening motorised valve which will open in slumber mode or if there's a power cut. Any heat in the tank will be used the next morning when heating comes on.

[FONT=&amp]2. Heat genie from system link. approx £500[/FONT], heat exchanger with safety cooling circuit and wiring centre. No heat leak rad or buffer required. Don't think it will run in link up mode ie both boilers together whereas the H2 will, this could be handy if the stove is struggling to match the heating demands.

Both Hetas approved

Anybodies inputs would be appreciated!

Joe

 

[SimonG]

Stove as a room heater only. Especially if its only lit for a few hours on a night.

 

[Gray0689]

Hi again

Just wondering if anyone can give their opinion on linking up a stove and boiler.

The boiler and hot water tank are sealed, the house is a bungalow with a megaflow tank at floor level.

I guess a thermal store would be recommended but after researching this it looks like it will cost me around £3000 for the tank and controls too expensive I think as the wood burner is only to supplement and will be mainly used in the evenings.

1. H2 control panel pre wired from heating innovations. Approx £1000 inc buffer tank (instead of heat leak rad), would have to open vent the boiler. The buffer tank would have a naturally opening motorised valve which will open in slumber mode or if there's a power cut. Any heat in the tank will be used the next morning when heating comes on.

[FONT=&amp]2. Heat genie from system link. approx £500[/FONT], heat exchanger with safety cooling circuit and wiring centre. No heat leak rad or buffer required. Don't think it will run in link up mode ie both boilers together whereas the H2 will, this could be handy if the stove is struggling to match the heating demands.

Both Hetas approved

Anybodies inputs would be appreciated!

Joe

What area are you in mate

 

[kimbo]

Dunsley neutraliser fits the bill you will need the wall mounted one

 

[Joe Drakeford]

Shetland Isles!!

9 kw stratford stove with back boiler has been ordered from the stove fitters warehouse.

 

[Joe Drakeford]

Thanks for the reply, I did consider the neutralizer but it seemed to need a lot of circulation pumps, whereas the h2 only needs one pump plus its fully wired.

 

[Ermintrude]

Waste of money without a buffer! Fire goes out - house cools.

 

[Joe Drakeford]

Thanks for the reply,

It is underfloor heating in a screed so It does retain the heat for a while. Can heat up the HW cylinder as well.

 

[kris]

Neutraliser only requires one pump and it's only there if limit stat kicks it on as coil pipes get to hot, the same pump can be used through room stat on the wood burner,,also there's a pump for your boiler that's all you need as regards pumps, I fitted a neutraliser in a link up system and it was brilliant,

 

[Joe Drakeford]

Thanks for the reply,

It is underfloor heating in a screed so It does retain the heat for a while. Can heat up the HW cylinder as well.

 

[Joe Drakeford]

Thank you for the reply, I will try and find a schematic of the neutralizer again and have a look.

 

[Best]

As above, ^^^ a neutraliser only needs one pump leaving it & a pump on an oil or gas boiler.
Any solid fuel stoves to a neutraliser just need gravity pipes without a pump.
So on a typical system using a neutraliser with a gas/oil boiler linking a stove, just 2 pumps & very little else.

 

[Joe Drakeford]

I was thinking there would be 3, one from the oil boiler, one from the neutralizer to the central heating and one to circulate the HW cylinder. If I placed the neutralizer above the stove I could gravity feed that. Was quite impressed with the H2 panel as 1 pump does it all.

 

[Nostrum]

Neutraliser won't work as you've a sealed system and the wood burner won't be suitable for a pressurised system, there's no hydraulic separation with a neutraliser.

 

[bigads28]

With what you describe and your underfloor I'd be saving for the thermal store. Build it properly once!

If you don't use the fire much you could argue the cost of combining out weighs the savings.

 

[Joe Drakeford]

With what you describe and your underfloor I'd be saving for the thermal store. Build it properly once!

If you don't use the fire much you could argue the cost of combining out weighs the savings.

You could be right, I will have to think this through a bit more!

 

[kris]

Neutraliser won't work as you've a sealed system and the wood burner won't be suitable for a pressurised system, there's no hydraulic separation with a neutraliser.

I'm pretty sure you can use an unvented tank but it can't work via gravity circulation. Must be pumped with extra high n low limit stats . Obviously a lot more care must be taken ensuring all safety aspects are covered .

 

[Joe Drakeford]

I'm pretty sure you can use an unvented tank but it can't work via gravity circulation. Must be pumped with extra high n low limit stats . Obviously a lot more care must be taken ensuring all safety aspects are covered .

Thanks for the reply
Yes, unvented indirect tank can be used but cannot be used for a heat leak ie gravity circulation. The idea was to open vent the oil boiler. Heating innovations who supply the H2 control panel say this is a perfectly legal solution.

 

[kris]

Have a look at dunsleys layouts on there page . But like bigads says if your not going to be using it much then it's an expensive install to not get the good out of it . However the cost of oil you may find you'd use it more than u think. There are loads of specs that must be adhered to . Like the f &e tank must be made from fibre glass with the float made of copper. The zone valves are a mixture of normally open and normally closed with a couple being spring loaded.

 

[Joe Drakeford]

Neutraliser won't work as you've a sealed system and the wood burner won't be suitable for a pressurised system, there's no hydraulic separation with a neutraliser.

I would be open venting the boiler and wood burner for the neutralizer or the H2 panel to work.

 

[kris]

Wood burner has to have an open vent that comes off the neutraliser in 22mm.

 

[Joe Drakeford]

Have a look at dunsleys layouts on there page . But like bigads says if your not going to be using it much then it's an expensive install to not get the good out of it . However the cost of oil you may find you'd use it more than u think. There are loads of specs that must be adhered to . Like the f &e tank must be made from fibre glass with the float made of copper. The zone valves are a mixture of normally open and normally closed with a couple being spring loaded.

I may use it more often during the winter if its a success and its saving burning heating oil! its not cheap here!
I'm in a Bungalow so it seems a shame to dump heat up there to a the heat leak rad in the loft, heating innovations (h2 panel) recommend I use a 150ltr cylinder (can buy stainless one locally for £200) as a buffer in the loft above stove with a motorised valve powered closed so if the power fails the valve opens and dumps the heat there by gravity, it will also open to this buffer tank if the stove is in slumber ie, water not hot enough to start the pump. This heat in the tank will then be used say in the morning when the heating is required.

Can you advise on good quality copper solder fittings and compression fittings? don't want to use unbranded cheapo stuff!