Discuss Bungs and automatic vents in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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I worry about bunging tanks, the reason for this is.

1. they might pop out if there is reverse pressure or if not in properly
2. F & E tanks are dirty and last thing i want to do is get my self covered in muck before i have even started work.
3. cold water tanks are clean and don't want to contaminate it with my dirty hands
 
Thanks for all the useful tips, gents.
On Saturday I have a trv to fit, so will try bunging the system (vented) first. I've copied out all your advice..... so heart beating rapidly and attempting to look confident, I'll give it a try.
I'm reluctant to drain down because the boiler is an old Potterton Flamingo, which will probably never work again once disturbed. ): and as you all say, it's an awful lot of work for one trv.
Say a little prayer for me!!!!
TerryH
 
Hi TERRY - i have a big thank you to say to all the pros / experienced guys on here. I recently bunged my open vented system yo chang etwo rad valves . the same job that you are doing on saturday. Yes, I was nervouse also!! this is how I bunged. But I am in no position to advise!! but this is what I did and it worked, appropriately shaped potato 9a slim potato not a fat one in the expansion pipe. I then used masking tape a few wraps round to get a good seal. In the feed pipe I put the top of a silicon sealeant tube!! The lid you screw off before you use the sealant.. Now this lid was kind of "splined" on the outside, so i got a wood chisel and chiselled off the "splines" If you get a lid without the splines obviously you wont need to do this! after chiselling off the splines, I found that it fiteed into fee hole perfectly! The bung held while change the rad valves. I even left the bung in for a week to show my mate what I did. The bung did not hold absolutely water tight, but all it was was a very slow drip .I easily fitted my rad valves, even with this very slow drip. But best thing to use , to bung both expansion and feed pipe is probably a cork or rubber bungs - if you can find any round the house!! I couldn't. it you happy to spend money, its called a "drain easy kit" aat the plumbers merchants - someting like £15 at plumbase!! a lot of money for two rubber bungs!! all the best mate. Nigel - firs timer - and thanks again to the pofessional for taking their time to input into these forums.
 
not many open vented systems have aav's mate as they should be designed out
 
did not turn on the central heating while bunged. However, the boiler was used to heat water for showering. Does the expansion pipe, [the one that drops over the F&E tank] act for the hot water also [in addition to the central heating]? I also have an expansion pipe dropping over my cold water feed tank, and this expansion pipe appears to come into the loft from a ceiling hole in the area of the bathroom.
 
Thanks again.....
Nijjy, well, my mind boggles! :D Thanks for the advice. I'm using a 22mm speedfit end-stop on the vent pipe and have a choice of conical bung or expanding bung on the F&E tank, I'll see what the connector looks like. The sealant top could be good in an emergency, provided it isn't one of those with a pre-drilled end !
Fuzzy, thanks. I know what you mean but being a great pessimist I'm going to have a quick check. You're right, the vent to the F&E SHOULD be the highest point and therefore any AAV's should not be needed in an open vented system.

I have NO intention of leaving bungs in for a week :D
Thanks, gents,
TerryH
 
By the time you lot have decided which size bung to use and whether to use a carrot, potato, piece of beetroot or whatever wouldn't it have been quicker to have drained the system?
:ninja:
 
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