Discuss Another ideal isar 24he in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hobo128

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Been out twice to this boiler, problem occurring is no hot water or heating and fault code L F flashing tried the usual press reset button, or turn boiler off for five seconds, made no difference. Took pcb out and checked it which seemed okay. When I put it all back it fired up and work for about a month, just been called back today and same thing happened, could this be a pcb on its way out or loose connection or something?
 
I'm no expert on the LF fault but from memory it's worth changing ignition / detection probes plus checking the condense & sump... The ignition generator can also fail.
 
Not normally a pcb fault with lf. Can be a number of things. Blocked condense pipe or trap. Ignition or flame rectification electrodes, flame rectification lead which gets hot and the coating on the cable melts or breaks off. Poor earth or earth pins failed. Best thing it to take the burner off and look at the components in the chamber, it's an easy job that eliminates several possible causes. If it sounds like a washing machine on start up then you know you have a condense issue. I wouldn't take the trap off unless you have a spare one because they always leak. Check gas pressures too. And finally a combustion test.
 
Also worth checking the blue impulse tube is not blocked or split.

But start off as Arran has said, electrode, detection, both leads, gas inlet pressure, and sump/ trap and condense pipe.
 
Does anyone even try and fix these heaps? I just quote for a new boiler, I'm doing them a favour getting those heaps out.
 
I spent 2 hours last night on an m30/100. Wish I hadn't. Still broken. Needs a new diverter motor now too. Just had a pump, condense trap and aav.
 
I always sook air in through my teeth when ever i see one in someones house... bag of cack.
 
I always sook air in through my teeth when ever i see one in someones house... bag of cack.

That suck through the teeth takes years of training. It gets issued with your book of excuses.
 
I'll be honest I haven't been back yet, actually I tell a lie, I did go back, boiler was flashing same fault. Did the same thing, took pcb out put it straight back in and it worked fine. I'm stumped, if I get called back I'll re post what I did, but as far as I know it's running, just don't under stand why I keep taking pcb out and putting it back and it works.
 
I'll be honest I haven't been back yet, actually I tell a lie, I did go back, boiler was flashing same fault. Did the same thing, took pcb out put it straight back in and it worked fine. I'm stumped, if I get called back I'll re post what I did, but as far as I know it's running, just don't under stand why I keep taking pcb out and putting it back and it works.


Why don't you leave it out? It might cure it.
 
If it starts working again I'd say it sounds like a condense issue. Probably drains away after being left for a long time but not enough whilst it's on.
 
I'm
To wrap up this post. Got called back to this boiler eventually. Flash l f fault or what ever. Decided instead of removing the pcb as I usually do I would check the condensate trap. On removal I found that the trap was blocked full of thin metal stuff. Cleaned it out and check the sump which was also filthy. After doing this I was pretty confident that it was the problem all along. Fired up and as far as I know it's still in operation.
 
Just to check. What would this blockage stop the boiler working? As in I have seen on some boilers that if the condense blocks up there is an earth cable that gets submerged in water cutting the boiler out. I couldn't see an earth on this boiler.
 
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