What can be done about this?

[armyash]

What’s the best way to sit the panels onto a tray or bath?
The trim some company’s sell looks a bit naff

This one the boards are floor to ceiling and the tray up to the boards. Got one next week and the tray is going in first. I think we are going to just cut the boards to fit and sit them on tray and seal up.

 

[Ben-gee]

Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)

 

[Ben-gee]

Tray up to boards is not good, that’s only for showrooms!

 

[armyash]

Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)

Quality info. Will use that on the bathroom next week.

What do you use to stick the boards with?

 

[armyash]

Tray up to boards is not good, that’s only for showrooms!

First time I've fitted these boards. Bloke I'm doing the job with has done a lot more than me so have followed his lead on that. Wrongly possibly.

 

[Ben-gee]

Geocel the works, or stixall are the two I use depending on availability.
Dow Corning 785 in the tongue groove joints.
I don’t use the internal corners, nice tight scribe and plane, then thin bead silicone .
All cut with handsaw and plane up to line.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sticks like **** I use when I have to do the panels

 

[armyash]

Plasterer I know said he will skim the whole ceiling for £160 if the coving is taken down.

Might be better off doing that.

 

[Jim Goodenough]

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!

If ceiling is bad you mearsure every 50mm, wow must be a cabinet maker....

 

[Jim Goodenough]

Method is this.

Fit tray/bath as normal and seal it to the wall.

Sit board on three 1 mm packers, leave these until adhesive dry, then remove and silicone up. Pump the 3mm gap full and finish with a smoothing tool ( I use the 8mm chamfer which gives approx 5 mm coverage).
The reason for three 1 mm packers and not a single 3 mm packer is so you don’t break a piece of the laminate face off when you remove them.
Slide out the middle one of the three, then press down and the others should come out easily- yes I learnt this the hard way , got away with superglue and custard never knew! But I could see I may not be lucky next time so developed the above method.

To deal with slopes wiggles etc in ceiling and walls. Draw a horizontal line and measure up and down from it, if ceiling bad I take a measurement every 50 mm across. Same with draw a vertical line and measure left and right.
DONT just get an overall height as you will be way off, especially if tray is slightly bowed ( aren’t they nearly all?) or , heaven forbid, the tray’s not quite level!
If you are in a hurry then leave the packers in, cut them flush with the board with sharp chisel and then just press them back a few mil so they’re hidden by silicone ( you shouldn’t have to do this and I would really advise against siliconing the same day as fixing the boards.)

Platerer's need re=educating, straight edge's, derby's, get it flat man!!