Discuss Vailant ecotec pro 28 pressure in the UK Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net
Thank you very much for the detailed response. Funnily enough the error code is now F.22 not F.75.Hi, the f75 is quite common for Vaillants. Pump/wps/low pressure/expansion vessel are a few of the things you will find.
I read above that the vessel was empty and was recharged ✔ and wps replaced.
My procedure as an engineer.
For low pressure. First to check all of the pipework, check the filter as they're prone to leaking.
Check all Radiator valves.
Pipework in cupboards, lofts, drain valves, inside the boiler etc.
Drain down the boiler. Recharge the expansion vessel, test the schrader valve with ldf.
While the boiler is drained, if you have a pressure reading say 0.3bar, then you will need to replace the wps (water pressure sensor £16) as you should have 0bar once drained. And showing you that the wps is given a false reading. Usually blocked showing signs of a dirty heating system. Check/clean filter.
Check outside at the prv (pressure relief valve) termination for any signs of a drip.
Also as previous engineers mentioned, check the heat exchanger for a split.
Another way to try locate the loss of pressure, once all system presure is topped up and running.
Turn off the flow and return isolation valves under neath the boiler (4mm Allen key, quarter turn). Leaving you without heating (turn off the heating at controls while isolated)
Leave isoated for "X" amount of days, then check your system pressure. If you have a lose of pressure while your heating is isolated, the fault is inside the boiler, have a visual of parts inside boiler then check the heat exchanger.
However if the hot water stayed on ok for "X" days, next step is to open the flow and return isolations.
If you get the pressure drop once opened, this tells you that the leak is on the heating circuit.
I hope this helps somewhat.
You're better off with a vaillant recommended Engineer in my opinion.
Thank you very much for the reply. I will try all of those things as having to top up almost daily now. Have a great Christmas!Position your wireless room thermostat closer to a radiator/heat source for a more accurate reading. Keeping away from windows and external doorways.
Try turning your thermostat down to 19.
Say the place you leave the room thermostat is in cold area, the heating will stay on longer trying to reach the 20° on the wireless stat. If you position too close to a Radiator it will reach temperature and turn off the heating quicker.
Or try putting the wireless stat in the hot bedroom and see how you get on
Egg timer, engineer to check the filter is clean. Allowing circulation.
I would go for a gas engineer and not dynorod.
Check visually: Filter for a leak, Radiator valves, Visible pipework, External PRV, drain offs etc
Thanks. I’m not sure I can remove the other end without draining the system as think the valve on the filling loop itself is what’s stopping the flow. I’ll double check and take a photo in a bit. For some reason my filling loop is where the old immersion boiler used to be upstairs and not under the combi.Filling loop needs changing as you shouldn’t have to use grips to turn it off and no you shouldn’t hear water flowing
Should the valve open when turned both clockwise and anti-clockwise?Filling loop needs changing as you shouldn’t have to use grips to turn it off and no you shouldn’t hear water flowing
Thanks. I’m not sure I can remove the other end without draining the system as think the valve on the filling loop itself is what’s stopping the flow. I’ll double check and take a photo in a bit. For some reason my filling loop is where the old immersion boiler used to be upstairs and not under the combi.
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