Discuss Shower pump not starting for ages in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Wow. How long does it take to run up a diagram like that? And I guess it can then be rotated and viewed from any angle? Nice...

Yes, there's little extra 'head' height that could be gained there and it would be a gamble on whether it would be enough on its own to ensure good pump performance from your existing pump. So it looks as tho' the most reliable solutions would be as Chalked says.

As for the pulsing, it's clearly not down to a lack of flange as you have one fitted. A powerful pump like yours will cause a sudden drop in pressure in the cylinder and pipework as it quickly fires up, tho', so I suspect that's still behind that issue; if you can imagine the cylinder walls and pipes being fractionally drawn in (I'm talking a tiny amount) and then springing back out - that can set up that pulsing cycle especially when the pump is on the borderline of being triggered in the first place. That's my theory anyways...

Let us know what you try and whether it works. A negative-head pump almost certainly will.

(3 bar is pretty powerful - do you use all that power and flow? If not - if you've always found it 'too' much - then perhaps consider a 2 bar or even less instead; it'll be more gentle on your system and I'd imagine less likely to cause the pulsing problem. But, take the advice of the pro you get in for the job.)
 
Wow. How long does it take to run up a diagram like that? And I guess it can then be rotated and viewed from any angle? Nice...

Yes, there's little extra 'head' height that could be gained there and it would be a gamble on whether it would be enough on its own to ensure good pump performance from your existing pump. So it looks as tho' the most reliable solutions would be as Chalked says.

As for the pulsing, it's clearly not down to a lack of flange as you have one fitted. A powerful pump like yours will cause a sudden drop in pressure in the cylinder and pipework as it quickly fires up, tho', so I suspect that's still behind that issue; if you can imagine the cylinder walls and pipes being fractionally drawn in (I'm talking a tiny amount) and then springing back out - that can set up that pulsing cycle especially when the pump is on the borderline of being triggered in the first place. That's my theory anyways...

Let us know what you try and whether it works. A negative-head pump almost certainly will.

(3 bar is pretty powerful - do you use all that power and flow? If not - if you've always found it 'too' much - then perhaps consider a 2 bar or even less instead; it'll be more gentle on your system and I'd imagine less likely to cause the pulsing problem. But, take the advice of the pro you get in for the job.)

Thanks again .I think I'll get a negative head pump .If I'd only listened to pro who did all the replumbing and bathroom installations 3 years ago I would have an unvented hot water cylinder which might have been better . A little knowledge is worse than none as they say .
 
If you have good mains pressure and flow, then an unvented cylinder gives great performance, and no pump in sight.

Good luck with your solution - it should be fine.
 
Thanks everyone for the advice. I got a negative head pump and everything is fine. Why doesnt everyone get negative head pumps just in case? Its miraculous.
 
extra cost and hope theres enough flow for a pos pump :D
 
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