Central heating and pipework issus all over newly bought house.

[jtsplumbing]

What makes you give that assumption?
If the last plumber was right, perhaps I just need a new pump in the airing cupboard, perhaps this resolves the banging pipes and boiler ramping up and down which are the two main issues.

I'm not sure if Plumbers do jobs on a day basis but how much would a plumber expect to be paid for a days labour + material costs?

I`m making a stab in the dark regarding flushing the system etc but just putting it out there......

12 rads.

If as you suspect , you have sludge in the system just replacing the pump wont make any difference,
Costs for a plumber for the day, Depends on Location ! if he's going to be touching boiler then you will need a Gas Safe registered one so you will be in the £150 to £300 per day bracket, can-not comment on materials as don't know what will be required. Power flush 12 rads Around £600 +.

 

[KevRusski]

thanks for feedback so far, from all I was prepared for cost s of around £500 for pump replacement and flushed/rads rebalanced.


I will investigate some of the other comments as I'm not up on the terminology, pretty sure the SVP is really tight fit as it passes through the ceiling into the loft, it's not the cistern.

The pipes are not small bore, these look a standard traditional size. In my last house they were small bore.

 

[Best]

You need cost of new pump, plus decent chemicals for cleaning system plus inhibitor to finally put into system to help prevent further corrosion.

 

[king of pipes]

As above bud chemically clean the system sentinel x 400 leave in the system and run it as normal to break up sludge and magnatite up to 2 weeks then drain the system while hot and flush change the pump at this stage refill and add sentinel x 100 inhibitor vent the system and fire up the boiler you should see a improvement, knocking and banging pipework is normally due to pipes being installed poorly take the floorboards up have a look ease notches in joists wrap hair felt lagging where pipes can expand and rub , screw the floorboards down

 

[KevRusski]

Thanks guys, I cleaned off all the sludge from the magna clean last night, rebalanced my radiators and I seem to be getting all rads on at high temp. Quite a few of the rads are not as hot at the bottom as they are at the top, maybe by 20% difference in temp.

Last night I had no knocking in the loft, all the usual creaking/tapping when the heat up (but that can be dealt with later). However, the Boiler was still cycling up and down as if it was struggling to keep temp down.

Can I ask, if it was the pump not performing or on its way out wouldn't you be able to hear the pumps speed vary too? Its just the pump sounds fine and I would have thought you would be able to hear that struggling in tandom with the boiler (if it was the ch pump)?

 

[Best]

Pumps can appear to be working fine, but are actually only half working. This can happen with nearly new pumps also.
Usually if the pump is failing, the furthest rads from the boiler and also on drops pipework will not work well, if at all.
Also make sure your system is balanced properly so that there are no easy circuits for the pump to do and therefore not properly heat some of the rads. If turning off some rads makes the others work better, this might mean balancing is needed

 

[jtsplumbing]

Are you by any chance in a hard water area ? as you may have a slight scale build up as well , seems hard water area's suffer a lot more from sludge than soft water area's,

 

[KevRusski]

Guys, on here nobody has really mentioned the magna clean system I have built in.

I cleaned this yesterday so it was free from sludge.

If I used the MC3+ rapide cleaner which is supposed to remove sludge/limescale etc would this be a good thing to try. My problem with this is with needing to power flush after but according to what it says on the sales adverts it "does not require a partial drain down".

It does say this at the end "ADEY's new formula has been specially developed to deliver exceptional results when used in conjunction with ADEY’s best practice MagnaCleanse®flushing process"

1. Would I be right to use this and do nothing else but add it to the magnaclean canister and walk away?

2. The do an MC1 product which I believe is an inhibitor, can I, say in a couple weeks after add this into the cylinder.

Or am I barking up the wrong tree and should call in a pro! its I have this magnaclean and that should do the job its purposes to do.

 

[KevRusski]

hard....:thinking2:

 

[john999uk]

I am not a plumber but if the rads are hot at the top and not so hot at the bottom that sounds like the bottom is full of sludge. I you guess the sludge wont heat up very fast.
I would guess that you need a power flush to get the sludge out of the rads.
If you have already removed 3 rads and refitted them you sound like you are OK at diy. So maybe a cheap way of doing a partial flush is to remove all the rads and flush them with a hose pipe outside.
While this wont be as effective as a proper power flush it might be better than nothing and get you going till you get a new boler. Obviously there is a possibility you could damage pipe work etc removing and refitting rads plus the need to refill with corrosion inhibitor etc.
One thing to remember is that normally a power flush will be required for a new boiler install. So it could actually be more cost effective to have the boiler replaced and power flushed if you consider that a new boiler will probably be more efficient than the old one so you will save on fuel.