Discuss Oil Boiler not firing up in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi,
My oil boiler stopped working, and will not fire back up.
It appears the header tank may have run dry (I have to switch the water to it on and off, as otherwise it overfills and overflows),
Header tank now full, system drained a little to eliminate air, and seems okay.

When I turn it on, it doesn't fire, if I force the zone valve across very quickly it attempts to fire then shuts off (3 seconds max).

The system is a shoddy 40 year old one, with terrible plumbing and wiring. Two motorised zone vale, neither actually automated so have to be permanently fixed into the open position. Hot water and CH both have to be on, its all or nothing - currently nothing!

any ideas? I'm freezing! ta
 
What do you mean it attempts to fire. Does the fan on the burner run.

First thing to check if it's been low on water is high limit.

But sounds more of a control's issue.

Time to phone your oil engineer.
 
The 'control box' is a Honeywell 42005748-001, and its the most messed up wiring you could wish to see! Is it this box thats controlling it? As for 'oil engineer', not easy to find anyone prepared to touch a 40 year old system, they just want to sell me a new one - if they bother to turn up!
 
sorry, and yes the fan works, its not a fan issue, I can free that easily when it sticks. It does seem very much like something is 'turning it off', and the little light on the Honeywell controller box inside the boiler doesn't light up - which is usually a sign the boiler itself is at fault (i.e no oil etc)
 
We mean controls like the valves not necessarily the physical controls you turn on and off
 
The 'physical control' is literally turning the fuse switch on or off! the thermostat never worked. I replaced the zone valves and pump, but the zone valves still never worked and I had to jam them permanently in the open position. Its worked fine for the past year after doing that, until the header tank ran dry a couple of nights ago. its a mason 130/170 - vented system.
 
It boils down to a controls prob still. I know you’ve had a work around with manually opening the valves I think you probably need somebody in who is competent in heating wiring and get them to sort it for good. The handles on the valves aren’t really designed to be manual on off switches
 
Get a heating engineer in.
It sounds like a mess of a job and with bodge it attempts at keeping heat working.
 
For tax reasons?

No! :p Unless for farmers to claim vat back on their diesel, or for risk takers to use the red stuff from their boiler oil tank to fuel their cars.

Some homes still use diesel for their boilers and some commercial properties. It gives high output for big boilers.
I don’t have any customers on diesel anymore I think
 

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